at the top out tree. it took us two nights on the wall and a day prior to fix to sickle. (not my normal ascent style, but rewarding all the same.)

All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > B. El Capitan > 2. Southwest Face > Nose (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2)

at the top out tree. it took us two nights on the wall and a day prior to fix to sickle. (not my normal ascent style, but rewarding all the same.)

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The Huber brothers on their speed record. One on top of the Boot Flake, the other on the way up. Other climbers at the base of Texas Flake and some on top of Dolt Tower.

Relazing on El Cap Tower

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3.8 from 14 votes

Hans Florine

Oct 9, 2015

“at the top out tree. it took us two nights on the wall and a day prior to fix to sickle. (not my normal ascent style, but rewarding all the same.)”

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Nearby Photos

This is what I'll remember most from the climb. Evening light after leading the Great Roof.

Think this pic speaks for itself!!!

John Bachar photo of Lynn Hill, last pitch of The Nose.

Route Overlay for a 3-Day Ascent of the Nose (times correspond to our progress up the wall...)

Brad sticking the Swing in style, just under halfway on our 6.5 hour run. Note my belay position, perfectly set-up for the "Double-Swing".<br>
<br>
Brad has cleaned all of his gear off the Boot Flake, so once he's established on Eagle Ledge, he puts me on belay and I swing on over to join him. Mega stoke every time you stick the swing and here the Monkeys hooting in the Valley below.<br>
<br>
Tom Evans Photo.

Texas flake anyone!!!

Great Roof. Photo by Stephen Guyette.

Camp 5

El Cap Tower, 1979

Climbers on the nose

About to complete the King Swing. <br>
Photo by Tom Evans

My Tom Evans moment. Everyone should have one or several in his/her lifetime.

The Great Roof!

Evening at edge of the great roof.

Looking down

Below the Boot

Me leading on the last pitch of the Nose on our 6.5 hour run. Brad is jugging below, he's in the orange helmet all the way on the left.<br>
Huge confusion and cluster here as a Korean team of three finish a multi-day ascent, and an attempted NIAD team finish a 30+ hour run.<br>
<br>
How we weaved our way through this cluster, I can't quite remember. The language barrier did no hamper us, though, as one of the Koreans allowed us to pass, referring to us as "Time Warriors".<br>
<br>
Tom Evans Photo

Last pitch on the nose. I'm following and bares is jugging up

Letter to Steve Roper after the 3rd ascent

The shadow of the Nose in the early morning

Hans cruzin' up the stove legs ...

P28+29 super fun free climbing 2500' off the ground. yeah!

FSA 2021

Camp 5

Starting up Pancake Flake

Jplotz cleaning the last bit of the Great Roof pitch.

If at first you don't succeed...

The Huber brothers on their speed record. One on top of the Boot Flake, the other on the way up. Other climbers at the base of Texas Flake and some on top of Dolt Tower.

at the top out tree. it took us two nights on the wall and a day prior to fix to sickle. (not my normal ascent style, but rewarding all the same.)

Relazing on El Cap Tower

My partner Richard following the Great Roof.

Jugging high up on the Nose. Can't remember what pitch this was, maybe the top of Pancake Flake?

Pancake Flake, 1979

My hero Brad Gobright making history. This lap would clock in at 2:30 or so, if memory serves correctly, and it would still be 2 more laps before he and Jim would claim the record. **Pay close attention to the bolt he is (not) clipping**

Looking down from the belay at after the great roof.

Me leading the pitch before the Great Roof - in the 70s

Shadow fun on Changing Corners pitch. Amazing climbing.

At the ending anchor of the great roof at sunset

El Cap Tower bivy.

The Great Roof.

Glory

Watching climbers on The Nose from the meadow.

The Nose!!!

Camp 5 Bivi Options

The great roof!

Nick and Jake tidying up on Dolt Tower

Winnie the Poo, hanging out on El Cap Tower

Nose Topo from The Ultimate Guide, by Yosemitebigwall.com / Erik Sloan

Dustin Moore jugging the impossibly exposed Changing Corners.

Chris Martin invincible on El Cap Tower.

Two doods who have no business being this high feat beloved spreader bar

Jugging up into the Gray Bands at sunset

The belay after the Great Roof pitch

looking up the nose from sickle ledge

Mark Powell on top of South Whizz. (1969). Photo by George Sessions.

Great roof is greater than great!!! :)

DJ jugging The Great Roof.

Page 2 of Nose Topo from Yosemite Bigwalls: The Ultimate Guide, by Erik Sloan

Near the top. Photo by Stephen Guyette.

The San Diego crew (Russel and Sean) making the traverse into Stove Legs at pitch 6. The route follows up the flake in the bottom of the photo.

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