Topo aspect from Iceberg Lake showing 5.8 alternate start for the first pitch. Highly recommend this variation. Climbers can be seen on first pitch of regular 5.6 start.

All Locations > California > High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Mt Whitney > E Buttress (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Topo aspect from Iceberg Lake showing 5.8 alternate start for the first pitch. Highly recommend this variation. Climbers can be seen on first pitch of regular 5.6 start.

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Woah

Sunrise from the E Buttress route

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4.9 from 14 votes

pacolobo

Sep 14, 2015

“Topo aspect from Iceberg Lake showing 5.8 alternate start for the first pitch. Highly recommend this variation. Climbers can be seen on first pitch of regular 5.6 start.”

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An incredible line. This perspective is hard to imagine when you're looking up at the mountain, but I hope this photo shows how it isn't all that sustained or intimidating when you're up there - just pure fun!

Mt. Whitney's East Buttress, just below the Peewee. Photo by Tauru.

Roping up at the start of the route.

Woah

Topo aspect from Iceberg Lake showing 5.8 alternate start for the first pitch. Highly recommend this variation. Climbers can be seen on first pitch of regular 5.6 start.

Sunrise from the E Buttress route

Fun shot of Peewee on the East Buttress.

Renee finishing up the crux moves on pitch 7.

Mt Whitney at sunrise. East Buttress is clearly visible on the right side of the picture.

Kevin on the East Buttress. December 2016

John Fujii pauses on the crest. Iceberg Lake below.

A view of the summit. There are many options here, but good route finding is needed to keep it 5.7. Many 5.8- 5.10 alternates...

Brett leads the 5.7 piton-protected variation above the 2nd Tower.

second 5.7 section

On the approach to the East Buttress.

Climbing past peewee block on Pitch 6. We went right of the block; easy climbing

Stay along the cliffs to the right on the descent of the Mountaineers Route and aim for the notch (shown here) to the right of Piss Rock to avoid lower gully. Cairned all the way.

Pinnacle Ridge

1st pitch

Jon coming up on pitch 3

right before the PeeWee on the East Buttress

remnants of the ice falls

Iceberg Lake campsite, with Whitney in background

Straight down the buttress. Camp at Icerberg Lake below.

The Peewee on the East Buttress.

Looking down pitch 1 to John Fujii

Mike Morley and Jeff Crow atop Mt. Whitney after summiting the East Buttress on a bluebird day in late May, 2002.

Duke soloing high on the East Buttress.

Having some fun on blocks, pre-summit, post roped up

Mountaineers Route descent (barely any snow left in May!)

Kevin on the East Buttress. December 2016

rippled slab is the first 5.7 section

Around the 4th pitch. Fun slabs ahead.

Looking up at the start of pitch 4.

2 climbers on top of the 2nd tower

Jonny pulls down on the right side of the Peewee. Photo by Brett Barrett.

looking up at the E Buttress

John Fujii at the end of pitch 2.

looking over to Russell

Whitney

Jeff Crow approaches the belay on one of the upper pitches of Whitney's East Buttress in late May, 2002.

Seth on lead.

flakes around P4/5

One of the airy sections, around pitch 6-8.

A view of Packy finding his way down the mountaineer's route...

Looking up to Pee Wee.

Aaron on lead.

Chris Astraus at the notch at the top of the 2nd pitch.

Belayed in a t shirt and bare feet on P1. Here at the 4th pitch there is plenty of ice and snow. Our reminder that conditions can change fast in the mountains! Still a great day out

Following P1

top of the 20' tower (marked on Supertopo)

run-off

final easy pitches to the summit

another view of Pinnacle Ridge

view down to Iceberg

another view of Pinnacle Ridge

Keeler Needles

Looking down the route from the summit. The class 3 talus is directly below and right of the arete.

P1 (regular start)

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