Options for the final headwall pitch. Option A or B must be the Head Crack pitch. We climbed option C, which seemed to fit the descriptions of other climbers who recommended climbing a steep right-facing dihedral, but the move over the overhang was strenuous, feeling more like 5.9 than 5.7. The cracks to the right were lower angle and appeared easier, but we weren't sure if they ended on a ledge. Option F looked like it was the easiest.
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Floyd Hayes
Aug 23, 2015
Options for the final headwall pitch. Option A or B must be the Head Crack pitch. We climbed option C, which seemed to fit the descriptions of other climbers who recommended climbing a steep right-facing dihedral, but the move over the overhang was strenuous, feeling more like 5.9 than 5.7. The cracks to the right were lower angle and appeared easier, but we weren't sure if they ended on a ledge. Option F looked like it was the easiest.
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
For the strenuous option C dihedral bulge (overhang?), an option is to take moves out onto the left face/arĂȘte and up past a piton or two, and then back into the dihedral. One is climbing left of the dihedral for maybe only 15 or 20 feet.

We took a look at the entry moves into the Option D dihedral: the terrain was full of lichen, the crack was dirty (unused?), and the climbing was harder than 5.7. We think it may have been a long time since that way was climbed, if ever. Jul 26, 2016
I did a pitch of D then realized the classic route was left, so I downclimbed and traversed left a pitch. Felt like 5.4 at least the start. It did look like it went all the way to the summit. Super dirty. Sep 21, 2016

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