Setting up for the crux move.

All Locations > Minnesota > Red Wing (a.k.a… > Winter Wall > Preemptive Strike (5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a)

Setting up for the crux move.

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Getting into the business.

Preparing for the heady deadpoint. This is one way of pulling the crux after a hold broke at the crux sequence.

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Craig Huang

Mar 22, 2015

“Setting up for the crux move.”

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More crux

Way up high!

Rock Fall 2019. Before on the left. After on the right. Red circling what fell. Bolts are unaffected for Preemetive Strike, but the moves through the roof might be. Also surrounding rock could be loose. Proceed with caution.

Pulling the underclings.

Gaining the first of two underclings.

Watching Kris doesn't help, he makes it look easy.

route heads over the roof up the crack/seam system. the chains are at the very top, making preemptive one of the longest routes at red wing.

Caution: pocket slippery when wet, photo by Nic Larson

Holds aren't that great through here.

Midway through the deadpoint.

Crux

Starting the crux moves.

Good underclings, but greasy. Shake out if you can, the real business is next.

good right hand. Feet are dicey through here.

good left hand to a . . .

Getting into the business.

Setting up for the crux move.

Preparing for the heady deadpoint. This is one way of pulling the crux after a hold broke at the crux sequence.

...but it's our chosspile.
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This came off next to the crux like pulling a book from a shelf. Still a great route.

The underclings, photo by Nic Larson

Kris Gorny on another casual ascent of Preemptive Strike. The beta in photos.

Got the right-hand pocket, home free.

Good holds but pumpy.

Eyeing up the throw, photo by Nic Larson

Hang on till the end.

Switched out the carabiners (with a donation from another generous climber at the cliff--I only had one spare). Just a reminder to check fixed gear and swap out the lowering biners when necessary. This one was very deeply grooved and very sharp.

start.

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Byron

Tucson, AZ