In the flare on P1
ID 110215854

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  2.0 from 1 vote

Seth Derr
Mar 20, 2015
In the flare on P1
The grunt P1 of this otherwise stellar route is thrashy "down payment" you have to do to earn the sweetness that is above. When I did this pitch in '91 it was coated with Silverfish, which made the thing really slippery and sorta creepy. Apr 1, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Glad to hear that this feature has cleaned up. Nov 12, 2016
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
I had a complete pumpfest on this pitch in 1978 or so as my first 5.9 lead...returned years later and it really is much, much easier if you stay on the outside and stem as much as possible. No trouble protecting it this way either. If you stay inside for security it is definitely a thrash. Basically if you are using any sort of chimney move you are doing it wrong, or at least making it harder on yourself. Mar 29, 2017

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