A google-eye view of the route. The biggest route finding issues are spotting the right turn to go up to the second basin and, on descent, traversing under the small vertical wall until past the obvious gash before heading down.

All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Arches NP > Elephant Butte > Standard (W Fins) (5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a)

A google-eye view of the route. The biggest route finding issues are spotting the right turn to go up to the second basin and, on descent, traversing under the small vertical wall until past the obvious gash before heading down.

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topo

summit photo!

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4.7 from 12 votes

John Peterson

Mar 17, 2015

“A google-eye view of the route. The biggest route finding issues are spotting the right turn to go up to the second basin and, on descent, traversing under the small vertical wall until past the obvious gash before heading down.”

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topo

A google-eye view of the route. The biggest route finding issues are spotting the right turn to go up to the second basin and, on descent, traversing under the small vertical wall until past the obvious gash before heading down.

summit photo!

From the summit

Summit.

Mike, setting up the first rap.

The final rap

Down the canyon marked 'view' on the toppo. Another great spot at the end too. Not to be missed while doing this route.

Crux headwall

Friend rapping in on the first.

Sand Valley

2nd rap!

This is the final scramble to the summit. It's a weird class 4 move but not bad.

last rapp off of Elephant Butte

This is above the first meadow. The crux is straight up the gully at the back of this meadow.

The hard to see pinnacle straight down in this photo is the left border of the gully leading to the descent rappel.

Taking a beginner to the summit. Not a bad day out.

Looking back down the rubble-filled gully. The short rib that needs to be climbed is visible coming out of the gully on the left.

Second rappel.

The rubble filled gully is the key to this route on Elephant Butte.

Entrance to the first canyon-y part, looking out towards Rocky/Bullwinkle

7' headwall crux with anchor cord as of 10-28-16. (Did it in Chocko sandals, so not too bad.)

From the top over looking the first rappel and the slot you take out.

Another topo with a different orientation. Park at the Garden of Eden lot and hike to the left of the Owl. This line skips the actual summit if you want to pass on that.

Transitioning from the down climb after the crux to the rappel ledge. Decent exposure to climber's right.

Heading to the second rappel. Photo by Nancy Turner, with permission.

final rappel

Astrida walking up the rib out of the beginning rubble filled canyon

This is the final descent canyon. As you come down off the summit go to the left of the obvious tower. Once in the canyon you'll pass through a lightly vegetated area before reaching the final rap station.

On top of the crux. The rappel anchors are just out of sight over the lip.

West Fins Route - First Rappel

last rap has air

Coming down the second and final rap. October 2012

Starting down the first rap. October 2012

yee ha

This is the first meadow. The way to the crux is the gully leading up and to the right.

Summit of Elephant Butte

Summit!

at last rap

from owl rock

Us on Elephant Butte - 2009

Going through the first valley

This photo shows the new location of the anchor, which is made up of three half inch plated sleeve bolts, and chains. The park asks that any old anchors that need updating are replaced with stainless or Superior metal. Bummer this new rig is not.

First rappel.

This is looking towards the summit from above the first rappel. The slabs are what you must scramble up to reach the summit.

First Rappel. By Nancy Turner with permission.

Getting close to the summit from the slabs. The cairn marking the weakness in the cliffs is straight ahead.

Sunset reflection

This is the crux on Elephant Butte. Some of us climbed it on the left and some went to the right.

Tom Hanks

scrambling above the slabby ascent into the next part of the canyon, good spot for lunch