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New routes up at Climbers Cove ,
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New routes up at Climbers Cove ,  
Research shows they hold great hence boats have stainless steel fixings , there are bolts on coastal climbs here that have been in place for over 7 years an are still great , we fall on them all the time . We are changing to wave glue in bolts soon not ordering any more expansion bolts so don't fret . What bolts are you using for your areas ? Feb 13, 2015
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
The problem with stainless bolts is that they will fail due to stress corrosion cracking. The fittings on boats have several things going for them which make them less susceptable to scc, number one is that there generally isn't a constant tensile stress on them like in the case of a bolt, and the second thing is that they generally have very smoothe surfaces on them that are easy to clean and don't trap corrosive ions. A wedge bolt on the other hand is under constant tensile stress and traps corrosive ions in the threads which exacerbates the problem. Wave bolts will be much better then wedge bolts, but you really should be using titanium. The one thing you have going for you is that the rock appears to be granite and not limestone. I really hope no one gets hurt when the stainless bolts start braking (it's only a matter of time) Feb 13, 2015
Hey this is all great information thank you , i agree with everything you've said and like i said we are changing over to wave and are looking at titanium . luckily we are the only people using these areas on a daily basis so i check all bolts each week . so i will spot any issues. thank you again for the info . Do you know how to get involved with the titanium project ? its so expensive to buy them.
I know stainless aren't the best but , they are still solid for at least 5 yrs i promise i place all my bolts and i check them all every time we climb, over a week i will climb all the climbs we have . i've been climbing 20yrs and i am certified with the bmc. I know the risks of stainless but i really haven't seen anything yet to worry me with using them here. There are stainless bolts on the beach in rocks for boats to moor to . they have been there for over 7yrs submerged in the ocean and they honestly are still solid. But ultimately i am changing over to wave an titanium they are the best . Its fun an challenging to bolt new areas ay ? do you have any projects at the moment any lines your working and bolting ?
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