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The Joker
ID 109663395 ·

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JPO
Nov 2, 2014
The Joker  
Nate Sydnor   Moab
Please don't use tick marks on desert cracks. They may be an aid to you, but when left behind they are a distraction and an eye sore for other climbers, as well as other user groups. There are those with different opinions about style. Some use tick marks and tape to size. Others just climb the crack as it is. Regardless of your opinion on this, if you want to use oxygen to summit Everest, then at least don't leave the cannisters strewn on the mountain. Respect the desert. We are not the only people who frequent these places, so if you must have the visual aid, please remove them immediately when you are done using the crack.

Edit: I thought that it would be obvious, but apparently it is not. This comment is NOT directed only at JP. The photo is 2 years old, so to think that I was expecting a result from just that one person seems odd. The comment is more so directed at those who have ambitions to come to this region for cracks such as this. The Joker, 2 years later, still sports many tick marks left behind by someone. Hard-climbing, visiting climbers, and some notable locals, are certainly guilty of leaving tick marks behind, and I am trying to address this issue. My assumption is that some sort of lack of conscientousness is at the heart of it, so the remedy seems simple - take the natural environment, as well as other people, into account when climbing. Ticks are becoming fixtures on routes like The Joker, Concepcion, Hidden Gem (47 tick marks!), and many other test-piece routes at Indian Creek. It is my personal opinion that tick marks lower the collective intelligence of the climbing scene. They have been DIRECTLY transplanted from gym culture, are an aid, and, in my opinion, go against the tradition in climbing of finding the way. Additionally, desert sandstone, particularly the Entrada that The Joker is in, is soft, and brushing off tick marks often means brushing off part of the rock itself.

Boissal, perhaps you should broaden your perspective and understand that I'm trying to make what I see as a bigger point. Perhaps you should also make the rounds to our hard cracks and see for yourself before chiming in. To pretend like this is not an issue is naive. Furthermore, as you do not live and climb in this region on a daily basis, perhaps you should gain some perspective before criticizing someone with good intentions who is simply asking the climbing community to not leave what is essentially graffiti strewn all over the desert. I have climbed on every one of these cracks, and in order to have a clean slate, I have to brush off someone else's tick marks. I have spoken with hikers, jeepers, AND OUR LOCAL FEDERAL LAND MANAGERS who ask what all the marks are. I see a trend in climbing wherein people seem to just USE these climbs as a way to develop their ego, or their sponsor list, or both. I am asking people to return to a sense of climbing in which we just engage with the rock as it is, and I am not apologetic about that. If you want to have an intelligent conversation about this, I am certainly agreeable to that, but please don't dumb down my point by pigeon-holing it as "bitching." Your comment, to me, actually has more of that tone in it, and comes across as ill-informed. Dec 5, 2016
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
What makes you say the tickmarks stayed? He's at the very bottom of the pitch... Preemptive bitching? That's a new low. Dec 6, 2016

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