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Looking down upon the route while coming over the mantle
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Dr Williams
Oct 29, 2014
Looking down upon the route while coming over the mantle  
A generation ago, John Bachar proposed a "seriousness" rating system for lead climbs similar to what the English did with their rating system. Bachar's "H" rating went like this:
H1= good protection, especially at the crux
H2= Heady lead, with "OK" pro, but has potential for a bad fall
H3= Very dangerous, long runouts and potential for serious
injury or death.

This system was never adopted, but John did provide some routes for comparison using this system. Interestingly, and I'd concur, he gave an H3 rating to this pitch, noting that although the climbing is relatively easy, a fall from here could result is a very long slide, with big air off that crux mantle and a formidable crash landing far down the slab below. I've heard of leaders snapping their ankles when they fell off the mantle, and I anyone venturing up the slabs above on the sharp end just needs to keep all their wits about them...just sayin'...See for yourself in this image: not much gear there, right?! Mar 31, 2015
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
We do have and use the G to X ratings. How is that different? Sep 28, 2016

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