An excerpt of "Head Games" by Matt Samet published in Rock and Ice "Ethics Edition" in 2004. Palisaid (Palace-Aid listed as one of the "7 routes to die for").
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Kris Gorny
Oct 12, 2014
An excerpt of "Head Games" by Matt Samet published in Rock and Ice "Ethics Edition" in 2004. Palisaid (Palace-Aid listed as one of the "7 routes to die for").
KurtH  
Good point...for the less bold like I who didn't want to top out on the grass, you can always hang your anchor just over the edge to clip prior. Hats off indeed to those who just go for it! May 5, 2015
Kris Gorny    
I believe the original top-out traverses right to Hidden Treasure along the top edge. Pulling on tufts of grass would be desperate...not that it hasn't been done, I'm sure :) May 5, 2015
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
i agree that the description in the article is not accurate. palisade does not fall into the same level of risk as the other routes mentioned or of other standard "r/x" routes like those found in the needles of SD.

that said, dave put up most of his FAs at palisade on lead. many were done onsight, with no pre-cleaning or inspection. over the years, the lines have been cleaned up a great deal, with fixed protection being added to some. with that in mind, i think palisade could have been R at the time of dave's ascent.

if one were so motivated, she could adjust the grade of palisade -- and many other lines at palisade head -- to fit the current conditions. i would advise against doing so. from arguments over the grade to discrediting ascents, i think changing the grades would open a very large can of worms. i think it is best to just take grades at palisade with a grain of salt and recognize that just because you climb xyz at palisade does not mean you can climb that grade elsewhere.

as for the top-out, i traversed left to hidden treasures. so did chris hirsch. i think that is best solution. this way at least then you are still topping out the wall. May 6, 2015

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