Mountain Project Logo
Climb
MTB
Hike
Trailrun
Ski
Matteo Fiori > Cerro Mamalluca, Vicu…
The Diehedral (3rd) pitch is sorta runout, pretty sustained, steep, but moderate (5.7-8ish) climbing, with a 5.9 crux to exit. Rope drag can be an issue, forcing a belay at the ledge once out of the dihedral.
ID 109558179 · · Copyright Violation?
The other option for descent is just to hike north down the ridge to the saddle, where you would have smartly left your excess gear, and reverse the approach, hoping to get picked up by some friendly local on the long walk back to town. Best time to climb: August-October.
Once at the ledge, there are two options: To the left, exit through the notch--the finish of Riders on the Sun. Or, straight up through this little doozy, which protects well, but climbs awkwardly. Crux of the route (5.9+) The route ends about 10 meters up from here.
Rate Photo
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
  0.0 from 0 votes
Matteo Fiori
Oct 7, 2014
“The Diehedral (3rd) pitch is sorta runout, pretty sustained, steep, but moderate (5.7-8ish) climbing, with a 5.9 crux to exit. Rope drag can be an issue, forcing a belay at the ledge once out of the dihedral. ”  

0 Comments

Nearby Photos

The other option for descent is just to hike north down the ridge to the saddle, where you would have smartly left your excess gear, and reverse the approach, hoping to get picked up by some friendly local on the long walk back to town. Best time to climb: August-October.
The Diehedral (3rd) pitch is sorta runout, pretty sustained, steep, but moderate (5.7-8ish) climbing, with a 5.9 crux to exit. Rope drag can be an issue, forcing a belay at the ledge once out of the dihedral.
Once at the ledge, there are two options: To the left, exit through the notch--the finish of Riders on the Sun. Or, straight up through this little doozy, which protects well, but climbs awkwardly. Crux of the route (5.9+) The route ends about 10 meters up from here.
The first pitch (5.7) of Diedro de La Luna. Run that sucker all the way to a small roof, from which point you can turn it left (5.8) or right (5.?) and then up through some 4th class dirt to the base of the Diehedral pitch.
For an epic day, one can carry all gear up the climb, walk south along the 2nd class ridge to the summit proper (Mamalluca has 3 peaks) and then drop down the steep west face back to the town of S. Isidro, just outside of Vicuña. Lots of walking, but it is gorgeous and fun.
Riders on the Sun (3 pitches 5.9). The line goes between the vegetation. Aim for the notch formed by jutting thumb-like feature at the top of the route. Mostly easy 5th class, but with a stout crux on each pitch. Some loose rock (less than there was when we got there!)
The East face of Cerro Mamalluca. Quality granite, especially on Diedro de La Luna.
A view of dawn breaking from Arroyo Agua Grande, which separates Cerro Negro and Cerro Mamalluca
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started