Working up the arête.

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Working up the arête.

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Working out the beta of "Three Dudes, One Hole (v5).
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Photo: Noah Kranz

WAIT 2-3 DAYS AFTER IT RAINS - Chunk off the right side of the start hold for Pocket Hercules. Found this weekend when I noticed something was missing.

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jpenrod Penrod

Oct 5, 2014

“Working up the arête.”

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Nearby Photos

Eldon Bouldering Map

The family that boulders together... Gezel clan, Fall 2013

looking across the river from the top of the cliff line over to the river boulders during the fall.

Zack Hitz sticking the Nose.

Throwing down on Pocket Hercules.

Panic Arête.

Climber: Kyle Ellefson
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Photo: Isaiah Stofferahn

Warmup wall.

Don't know names or grades, only introduced to this one a couple weeks ago during a climbing demo with Parks & Trails Council of MN. Near Warmup Wall, but before? After? Hard to say with everything in bloom. Two problems. Left problem was V0-1. Right problem (around arete, overhanging face) was V2-3? Do not climb wet rock here.

Levi on All For V4 - see other picture for description. Left of this problem is Panic Arete, V5. Dotted line is approximate route. Wipe off your feet before every attempt, this problem is over a sand bar. Climbing with sandy shoes will degrade the rock quality, don't do it! Sometimes can't be climbed due to water levels. Don't climb wet rock here!

Fun problem on the warm-up wall.

Zack Hitz starting Hammer.

Heard this referred to as Please Hammer Don't Hurt 'em, Nutri Grain, and Hercules Arete; V3. "Hammer" is attributed to Chris Craft, circa 2001. On far back corner of Pocket Hercules, sit start low, move up, then left. I did it with one pad and no spotter after several attempts. Very good problem, thoroughly enjoyed working it. Don't climb wet rock! Read other thoughts about the name at instagram.com/p/f-8arklAw2/

Catching the lip on "Three Dudes, One Hole" V5.
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Photo: Noah Kranz

The Warmup Wall. Go left, go right, go in circles... so many holds to choose from. Some obvious lines when chalk is present. Right top out is easier than left top out. Probably all go V2-3? This rock sees no sun when trees are in bloom and takes forever to dry. If you're not catching the theme here, let me repeat: don't climb on wet rock here!

Cruising.

Boris on V2ish problem. Don't know what this is called or how to describe getting there. Uphill and right of Warmup Wall. Sit start and traverse up and right, eventually around arete for top out. Needs several pads or spotter to move single pad (or, just don't fall). Very fun problem in a very weird spot. Stays wet longer than most other problems due to location. Do not climb wet rock here.

Jim on All For V4 on the River Boulder. This problem is left of The Best V5 in MN. Start on whatever is comfy, hike your feet up, and don't stop. Goes up and then right around arete to bomber pocket for finish. Wipe off your feet before every attempt, this problem is over a sand bar. Climbing with sandy shoes will degrade the rock quality, don't do it! Sometimes can't be climbed due to water levels. Don't climb wet rock here!

James on unknown V2. On the trail just before reaching the River Boulder, this will be on your right. Start on block on right, follow chalked holds up and left. Move to left hand in picture can be dynamic for some, depending on height/reach. From there, it get's spicy. Bring more than one pad and have a spotter. Top out is a mantle high off the deck. Do not climb wet rock here.

I only say it because it needs to be said; DO NOT climb on wet rock here. We have worked too hard as a community to save this land. If you arrive and the rock is wet, or even the slightest bit damp, walk away from it. Do something else, go somewhere else. Don't be the person that didn't heed that warning and breaks a hold because you were impatient. We now have a parking lot at the end of Old Wagon Rd. Go down Old Wagon Rd, continue straight on the gravel road to the locked gate, use the code 0515 to open the gate, lock it behind you going in and out. There is an obvious trail from the parking lot to the old angle road, when you get there, go left downhill. You'll see a trail go off to the right, that leads towards the River Boulder. Or, continue on to the left to approach the Warmup Wall and Pocket Hercules area. Many other problems and areas not on this map. Only going with what I know for sure. Someday, more beta will be shared by those in the know. Have fun, be safe, respect this area. It took more work than you know by more people than will be credited for us to be able to climb here today. Thank you to those who came before me, I'm forever indebted to your efforts.

Warmup wall.

Hanging by the river.

Mid session coffee break.
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PC: Nick Richter

Adam on The Best V5 in MN. Don't know FA history. River Boulder. Wipe your feet before every try, problem is over sand bank. Accessibility varies based on water level. Campus start. Best to have multiple pads. Don't climb on wet rock!

Lynn on Pocket Hercules; V7. Start hold broke 2014, not sure if it changed grade. Sit start, big move to sharp pocket, bigger move to sharper pocket, then the fun begins. Left variation is Left of Hercules or Hercules Left or something; V4. Similar start, move left through obvious chalked holds and mega pocket. Do not climb wet rock! This problem is a clear example of what will happen if you do. Wet sandstone breaks. Damp sandstone breaks. Leave it alone. Go somewhere else! Don't know history of these problems.

Eldon Gate on a crisp fall morning

Paul on Riverside V4. Not sure of name, that's what I call it. Sometimes can't be climbed due to river level. On river side of River Boulder. Sit start at shelf lower left of picture, traverse right, featureless top out over right face. Don't climb wet rock here.

Working out the beta of "Three Dudes, One Hole (v5).
<br>
Photo: Noah Kranz

Working up the arête.

WAIT 2-3 DAYS AFTER IT RAINS - Chunk off the right side of the start hold for Pocket Hercules. Found this weekend when I noticed something was missing.

Not a problem of note. VB. From parking lot, follow trail to angle road, turn right and head uphill, on left. Playground of a rock. Warm up or intro for non-climbers/beginners. Do not climb wet rock!

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jpenrod Penrod

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