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The Fun in the Sun wall, in Rattlesnake Canyon, gets my vote as Santa Barbara's coolest climbing outing. The wall boasts excellent moderate face climbs up to 70 meters tall (70 meters!!). And the upper headwall of Fun in the Sun is simply unforgettable--certainly the best route I've done to date in SB.<br>
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Blue - Written Exam 5.9<br>
Green - King Snake Crack (5.7)<br>
Yellow - Tender Flakes of Mercy (5.8)<br>
Red - Fun in the Sun (5.8)
ID 109326528 ·

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Matthew Fienup
Aug 8, 2014
The Fun in the Sun wall, in Rattlesnake Canyon, gets my vote as Santa Barbara's coolest climbing outing. The wall boasts excellent moderate face climbs up to 70 meters tall (70 meters!!). And the upper headwall of Fun in the Sun is simply unforgettable--certainly the best route I've done to date in SB.

Blue - Written Exam 5.9
Green - King Snake Crack (5.7)
Yellow - Tender Flakes of Mercy (5.8)
Red - Fun in the Sun (5.8)  
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
The must-do route in Rattlesnake Canyon is Fun in the Sun. Here's the detailed beta:

The route starts on a large boulder in the shade, about 30 feet to the right of Tender Flakes and King Snake Crack. Look for a single bolt located about 25 feet off the ground.

Start on delicate friction and climb up and slightly-left to meet the bolt. You may want to place a small cam in a horizontal crack, along the way--getting to the first bolt is 5.7 and the landing is bad. From the bolt, step left and climb past the left-hand side of a small overhang. The rock is chossy here and the crack will not take gear. This is the only unpleasant climbing on the route. Above the overhang, locate a left-facing corner that turns into a small overhang about 30 feet higher. Climb this, placing gear along the way. This second overhang is passed easily on large face holds. Once on the face above, it is possible to step right and place a cam before reaching the first of two bolts. Climb past two bolts to a two-bolt belay. These two bolts adequately protect the climbing above, but the crux of the route occurs more than a body-length above the second of these and just before reaching the belay. On a hot, sweaty day, this section feels 5.9+ (PG-13)--and easier in pleasant weather. In total the pitch is 115 feet long and requires gear from micro-cams to 2-inches.

The second pitch is one of the finest on the central coast! Face climb directly up from the hanging belay, aiming for a horizontal ledge about 30 feet up. This section of the pitch is unprotected and goes at 5.8. Don't fall. Once on the ledge, clip a bolt and then climb a nice finger crack, placing gear in the micro to 3/4-inch range. Where the crack ends, clip a bolt and then contemplate the magnificent headwall above. Two more bolts protect stunning climbing on fabulous rock. The only thing more rewarding than this section of climbing is the beautiful summit that awaits you on top. In total, the pitch is 110 feet and requires gear from micro to 3/4-inch.

All told, the route is very close to 70-m long and 5.8+ (PG-13/R). The original bolts were faithfully (one for one) and expertly replaced with nice 1/2" Rawls.
Sep 26, 2014
Left a C4 #1 Camalot in a crack on Fun in the Sun on 4.3.16. If someone gets to it before me, please give me a shout out. Thank you. Apr 20, 2016
Michael Weaver
Santa Barbara, CA
Michael Weaver   Santa Barbara, CA
This is a great photo, but it is of Alchemy, not Renaissance crag. Nov 11, 2017

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