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All Locations > New York > Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - S… > Shockley's Ceiling (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

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ID 109255741 ·

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Pulling the move

Chilly day on Shockley's<br>
<br>

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4.4 from 5 votes

Jason M G

Jul 21, 2014

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Nearby Photos

the late great Roger Marshall in the mid 80's<br>

1957 Shockley's Ceiling-climber Marianne Marquardt

Unknown climber a few feet above the first crux roof.

Derek underneath the first crux roof on Shockley's Ceiling (5.7)<br>
<br>
A cropped version of a photo submitted by Denis O'Connor.

pitch 2 roof

Derek underneath the first crux roof.

Pulling the move

Start

Chilly day on Shockley's<br>
<br>

Shortly after this, he fell. This is the photo that was displayed at the Mohonk Visitor Center for many years, and is the photo that "covers" Shockley's Ceiling in Dick Dumais' book "The Shawangunks", here digitized from the original slide.

Finishing

Jen pulling the classic roof. (Short people beware).

She demonstrated a lot of strength during this struggle, with much of her weight on her arms.

pitch 2

Craig Plescia - Summer 2015<br>
<br>
Wedging in there for the reach.

Bruno Hamann leading, circa 1982

Looking down on the first crux roof. An exploratory hand emerges...

Taken roughly a month after 9/11

Nice shot from the hairpin on 12 December of someone getting some!

under the crux

Jesse looking up at Shockley's Ceiling. We traversed over from Strickley's Shockley's where we did the Oscar & Charlie start

Crystal begins negotiating the roof.

Trying to get her thigh up over the lip.

AJ pulling the roof

The best part

RRuef pulling the roof of Shockley's, after linking it with the first pitch of Strictly from Nowhere

Even my 6'7" husband, Pawel, was stretching to make this reach!

Laura topping out with Dominic Albanese belaying away.

Gearing up for the roof crux on P3. There are abundant placement opportunities here.

Ryan cruising the crux roof on P3

I'm leading Shockley's as the last pitch of a Strictly from Nowhere linkup.

pulling the roof move

Some good exposure, although you don't notice it when doing this move, since you can't even see your feet, let alone the hairpin turn.

Derek and Crystal from Gloversville, NY. Starting up P3.

me on Shockley's Ceiling 8/20/2011

Finishing up the final pitch

Henry Ley (@henry_ley) finishes P2 of Shockley's as he approaches the GT. We found the gear options to be scarce so we belayed off the tree to the right.

Joel Ryan topping out Shockley's.

He stopped and belayed in the middle of the pitch, at the top of the corner above the first crux roof. A very good idea if the follower might have trouble with the roof.

Just under the roof

Success! And she managed to maintain her sense of humor.

Chris Gregory pulling "the move" on Shockley's. May 2018. Photo by Ben Hoste.

Elbows, thighs, whatever it takes.

It's a tough move for 5.6, especially if you don't have experience with the Gunks. And it was Crystal's first visit.

the intermediate rap right below the ceiling is a bit crunched, but at least I got a seat

Going big!

Many options exist. This being the groin jam technique.

Spacious ledge at the top of first pitch. We made a gear anchor in the corner on climber's left, but the route goes to the right.

My lead of the money pitch. Thank you Ashlee for the picture.

Unknown climber at the second roof on P3

Of course, it wasn't entirely over. Here she approaches the second roof, which some find more difficult than the first. (But not Crystal--she cruised it.)

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