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Ode to the 70's. Cutoffs, swami belt, hexes, bowline<br>
Deface Crack, St. George, UT.  Photo courtesy of James Ruda
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Tradwanker
Mar 24, 2014
Ode to the 70's. Cutoffs, swami belt, hexes, bowline
Deface Crack, St. George, UT. Photo courtesy of James Ruda  
This brings it back in sharp focus.So very cool !
these climbers today( 35 &40 yearolds too and younger/gym initiates)can not imagine, and need to see and hear more about how climbing and learning to climb really happened. WE took it just as seriously as they, but the consequences of fail/falling... ho how I wish I could translate those old feelings here, and at the cliff /come outdoor gym.
The fact that all the springy things, that work so well, soft gear and ease of having others /crowds of others around has changed the Experience entirely.(for the most part)
I am T Rad! and so are you- not a wanker!!
old armed and in the way! and not going away quietly!
On some other site I read how basic climbing knowledge/skills among this new generation are sorely lacking, and that the alpine club and others were trying to brain storm about what to do about it.
this shot is the answer;
Take away all the fancy gear, harnesses too.
Learn to climb.
up and DOWN.
Do not fall.
Place the gear on lead, climb above it.
(hang to set the crux pro, maybe, not pure, but still alive to tell about it)
(and watch the rope jiggle at that bomber hex, as the hex two placements lower down zippers out from rope wiggle)(I switched to double ropes and British made 'clog wobs' )
remember belay duty when Hexes would come zipping down the rope, leaving the climber with half as many pieces in, as he had placed?
Talk about a learning curve!
Thank you so much for the Great picture, I had to add some words(and I now have my handle)
T Rad the ranting man! Jun 24, 2014

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Ode to the 70's. Cutoffs, swami belt, hexes, bowline<br>
Deface Crack, St. George, UT.  Photo courtesy of James Ruda