The ledge to the start of the climb.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > Capitol Peak > Northwest Buttress (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

The ledge to the start of the climb.

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Luke Laeser working his way through the first pitch.

Looking into the wet, lower part of the second pitch chimney. Very loose rocks in here, so beware!

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2.5 from 2 votes

Paul Kummer

Mar 12, 2014

“The ledge to the start of the climb.”

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Nearby Photos

Chris Baldwin and I simulclimbing the amazing arête for hundreds of feet above Unicorn Spire on a fantastic September day, 2018.

A rough topo of the route. Dawson's 14er guide has a better detailed one.

View from Capitol Lake of the Northwest Buttress.

Summit photo with Joshua Kasumovic.

Chris Baldwin and I simulclimbing the upper headwall of Cap's NW Buttress.

Right after the second pitch, looking up at Unicorn Spire. We went around to the left side, easy climbing with few spots for gear.
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Photo by Joshua Kasumovic.

The final section of the final pitch looking down into the valley.

Topo of pitches one and two. Disregard my awful msPaint skills. Also there isn't any fixed gear at the base of the chimney as far as I could tell, so save a couple of #2s.

Chris Baldwin and I on Cap's summit. Success up the NW Butt!

Luke Laeser working his way through the first pitch.

The ledge to the start of the climb.

Looking into the wet, lower part of the second pitch chimney. Very loose rocks in here, so beware!

Use the large ledge to access the first pitches.

Roland heading up the 4th class ramp to get around to the right of Unicorn Pinnacle.

Extremely loose roof after fixed pin belay on saddle.

The first two pitches

Aaron Taylor at the blast off ledge for pitch one.

NW Buttress of Capital Peak.

Chris Baldwin following pitch 1 of Cap's NW Buttress.

Northwest Buttress of Capitol Peak, July 2003.

View down the Northwest Buttress of Capitol Peak

Overlooking Capitol Lake before the weather started rolling in on us.

On the summit.

Summiting.

Final 5.7 corner and small roof above. Roof has tons of loose blocks jammed in it. Very funky, but easy to step out right to avoid.

Looking down at Unicorn Pinnacle from the low 5th class slabs.

Flavor country on Capitol Peak.

View looking down from the top of the 2nd pitch.

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