Aaron Wait, wrapping up the day

All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 12-Oak Creek Ca… > Black Orpheus A… > Black Orpheus (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a)

Aaron Wait, wrapping up the day

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James making quick work of the crux on Pitch 10.

First pitch approaching the anchors - Climbed Nov. 2009 with Jan Roestel

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Doug Hemken

Jan 15, 2014

“Aaron Wait, wrapping up the day”

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Nearby Photos

Launching up into the crack and corner of pitch 8 (SuperTopo). December 31, 2009.

Curt riding the bull on top of Black Orpheus.

Black Orpheus

Mo on P10 just before the "5.6" lieback

Looking up at Black Orpheus

annotated route

first single and double rope raps on the Chicken Lips descent

Cool exposure just before the thin hands crack

The "cool little arch" (from Supertopo descent beta) you pass through if you are doing the single rope rappel descent.

Xavier Wasiak leading the first pitch

Brett pulls down on the Black Orpheus crux section.

Richard at the massive dihedral. Photo by Xavier Wasiak (rope gun). Xavier led all pitches that day, often faster than Richard could follow them.

Mo leading P8

Approaching the handcrack

A variation to the bottom section of Black Orpheus. See comments under the route description.

Andrei Zippy on the 5.9 mnoney pitch of Black Orpheus

Andrei Zippy on the start of P3 or top of 2nd pitch depending on how you do it.

Steve leading the sweet 5.9 pitch.

This was the crux if I remember - here's Bruce pulling around the corner and up out of the chimney. These were taken March or April 2004. We took the Solar gully descent (I think - 2nd gully on the right) - it was wilder and spicier than the climbing but beautiful!

Final Approach with Route Marked out - Climbed Nov. 2009 with Jan Roestel

The second rappel (if you are doing single rope rappels) on the descent into Painted Bowl.

Pitch 11 of Black Orpheus. To the top!

Twin cracks on Pitch 9 of Black Orpheus.

Fun climbing on Pitch 2 of Black Orpheus.

The infamous IBM Boulder on the descent (approx 8 feet in diameter).

Near the start

Following the second pitch

way to the rap station for the Chicken Lips descent

P11

looking down the slabs that make up P4-7

The crux pitch on Black Orpheus 5.9+/5.10

another view of Painted Bowl

Climbing past P1 anchors - Climbed Nov. 2009 with Jan Roestel

Getting into the meat of it - Climbed Nov. 2009 with Jan Roestel

second single rope rap on the Chicken Lips descent (anchor is at the top of the chimney)

Mo leading P2

traditional slither at the bottom of the Chicken Lips/Painted Bowl descent (as of March 2012 the cairns take you slightly upstream of this)

Pitch 1 of Black Orpheus.

looking back at the route

Pitch 8 of Black Orpheus, where the fun really begins.

Aaron, start of the day

The "5.6" corner on Pitch 10 of Black Orpheus.

Stone Wells relaxin' all cool at the pitch 5 belay according to MP.

Beginning the descent towards Painted Bowl after climbing Black Orpheus. Eagle Wall is in background left.

Aaron heads for the final layback

James making quick work of the crux on Pitch 10.

Aaron Wait, wrapping up the day

First pitch approaching the anchors - Climbed Nov. 2009 with Jan Roestel

Sweet 5.9 pitch after the easy section.

Almost there after the 1.5 hour approach from the 159 pull out (loop wasn't open yet this fine early winter morning)

Under the huge triangular roof-- almost done with the middle section.

Leading out on exciting face moves to reach the sweet corner crack on P5. The crack offers great protection (.5-1's) and has plenty of face holds on either side to make solid crack climbing skills a non necessity on this route.

Painted Bowl

Wandering up the middle section.

looking down P1

Looking down pitch 5, showing the chimney and thin hands corner

Fore-shortened view of all of the Black Orpheus route. December 2009.