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Nate Ball
Nov 25, 2013
Kevlar Vest topo  
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Too bad about the retro-bolts. It looks like trad climbing might not survive there much longer, considering that was an obvious gear-route. What is "off limits" there? Nothing? Feb 6, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Things change. I'm not sure there has ever been a "trad ethic" or any ethic at all for that matter. The dude who bolted the upper crack is a big deal in Taipei, and so his work goes unchallenged. Recent rebolting has included routes that were FA'd on gear and are perfectly safe without the bolts... it's all about convenience here. Thankfully no established trad routes have been retro-bolted since 2010. Feb 6, 2017

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