Paul Gleason- on an alternate P1 of 'the Flakes' 1972. We wanted to add an extra pitch to the climb, and were attempting to free the aid and succeeded on some parts.  This pitch is mentioned in Wilts' 1973 guide, and starts at the base on the right side of the 150' buttress between the 'Trough' and the 'Maiden' below the 5.11 (Wilts mentions 5.10) thin crack.  Wilts: "climb directly up...a prominent right angle dihedral passing a series of 4 overhangs...continue up to From bad Traverse ". Tunneling under the third overhang is an option. Probably about 5.8-but it's been awhile since we did it.
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Keith Leaman
Nov 7, 2013
Paul Gleason- on an alternate P1 of 'the Flakes' 1972. We wanted to add an extra pitch to the climb, and were attempting to free the aid and succeeded on some parts. This pitch is mentioned in Wilts' 1973 guide, and starts at the base on the right side of the 150' buttress between the 'Trough' and the 'Maiden' below the 5.11 (Wilts mentions 5.10) thin crack. Wilts: "climb directly up...a prominent right angle dihedral passing a series of 4 overhangs...continue up to From bad Traverse ". Tunneling under the third overhang is an option. Probably about 5.8-but it's been awhile since we did it.

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