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All Locations > California > Southern Sierra > Courtright Rese… > Power Dome > W Face > A Little Nukey (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)
My solution to not having tri-cams for the solution pockets.
ID 108375393 ·
First Pitch of 'Little Nukey'....Rumoured to be the best 5.8 face pitch in the Sierra.
Topo showing A Little Nukey (5.9PG13). I would give this route 5 (out of 5) stars. There are a total of 6 pitches. I would recommend this route for a competent 5.9 leader. A few spots seem just a bit runout but nothing too severe. Note - the Moser topo in the Sequoia Kings Canyon Guide shows pitch 2 going right of the roof. Some creative trickster has now moved the bolts so it goes straight over the roof (5.9). Actually an improvement in the quality of the climb. Be sure to bring lots of long slings (and biners) for the upper pitches. You'll want Tri-cams for the "holes pitch". Plan on about 5 to 6 hours from car to car. I would say the climb is definitely 5.9, not 5.9-.
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  4.5 from 6 votes
Kyle Queener
Oct 7, 2013
“My solution to not having tri-cams for the solution pockets.”  

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To find the start of A Little Nukey (5.9), look for the obvious "shield" above you. You should be directly below or slightly right of the shield. The first bolt is a bit high (PG13) but not runout. If your first bolt looks really high, you're probably on an adjacent climb. The start is partway down a slope.
First Pitch of 'Little Nukey'....Rumoured to be the best 5.8 face pitch in the Sierra.
My solution to not having tri-cams for the solution pockets.
Topo showing A Little Nukey (5.9PG13). I would give this route 5 (out of 5) stars. There are a total of 6 pitches. I would recommend this route for a competent 5.9 leader. A few spots seem just a bit runout but nothing too severe. Note - the Moser topo in the Sequoia Kings Canyon Guide shows pitch 2 going right of the roof. Some creative trickster has now moved the bolts so it goes straight over the roof (5.9). Actually an improvement in the quality of the climb. Be sure to bring lots of long slings (and biners) for the upper pitches. You'll want Tri-cams for the "holes pitch". Plan on about 5 to 6 hours from car to car. I would say the climb is definitely 5.9, not 5.9-.
Photo showing the "cat walk" prior to the rap. It's short, easy walk to get to the rap station. First rap is 100'. Second rap is about 200'. I suspect you could do the 2nd rap at 100' and downclimb the rest on ledges to the right of the rap line. Careful not to rap off the end of your rope!
Kelly setting off on the final long pitch to the top.
This pulled back view makes the climb look intimidating... but if you make it past the first two bolts (crux), the rest of the climb is a breeze. Climbers are starting the 4th pitch, above the upside-down heart feature.
Climbering on the holes pitch (4)
A Little Nukey
A sea of white granite and Fall colors in full effect. Nearing the top of the 3rd pitch.
fun granite smearing
Jill all racked up and ready to rock. This is about 1/2 way from the rap station to the base of Little Nukey.