Pitch 2 direct

All Locations > California > High Sierra > 04 - Ritter & M… > Clyde Minaret > Southeast Face (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Pitch 2 direct

ID 108350300 ·

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The second dihedral pitch near the top of the route.

Hamik climbing the mandatory flake before the final traverse.

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5.0 from 4 votes

Tim Wolfe

Sep 22, 2013

“Pitch 2 direct”

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The second dihedral pitch near the top of the route.

Pitch 2 direct

Hamik climbing the mandatory flake before the final traverse.

Southeast Face of the Clyde Minaret. Somewhere in the upper section of the climb.

This is the ledge. Walk up the small bouldery ramp and then climb straight up.

The descent route. This is a little after the first rappel (first rappel is from some black webbing). Following the ridge down the gully. DO NOT GO ALL THE WAY TO THE WATER. You turn left into another gully that will eventually take you to the base of the Normal Start. There is one more rappel waiting in the gully.

Approaching the summit

On the final ridge of the Clyde Minaret.

Southeast Face, Clyde Minaret.

Looking down the classic corner on Pitch 2 of the direct start.

Hanging belay start of P8 "The Shallow Dihedral"

Family ascent via the direct start. Kids age 8 & 11

Spoiler Alert<br>
<br>
The route can be done in 6.5 pitches if you stretch a 70m rope as shown here.

This is the corner/wide crack you are looking for as the direct and regular starts join. It is brighter white granite than it looks in this photo, especially in the sun. You mostly climb the corner to the right of the wide crack.

I think this is the intended route of the standard start. Slings at belay. Stay on ledges after.

As seen from South Notch descent.

Peter getting to the belay at the bottom of pitch 4, the short traverse to the climbers left from the direct start

Charles following a pitch.

Original start of Clyde Minaret--Southeast Face IV 5.8, showing pitches 1-3 plus rappel route.

This is looking up the first couple/three pitches of the Normal Start from the base.

Charles leads pitch 2 (5.10a)

A perhaps more usable topo than the computerized drawing otherwise present here.

This is the ledge for the start of 4th pitch, or 3rd from the Normal Start. This is where the two routes join.

The wide crack that starts the 4th pitch--or 3rd from Normal Start.

Once you reach the top you climb around the right of the summit pinnacles. It's still another couple/three pitches of scrambling from here and easily soloed or simul'd.

Really old rusted hanger at the top of the 5th. At a nice ledge before the traverse pitch. The first dihedral follows.

Chris Owen route finding below the shallow dihedral - Photo by John Fujii.

Adam starting the traverse pitch.

Someone has left a wonderful hanta-bivi next to the summit. Gross, please pack out your shit. Next time I'll try to remember to bring a trash bag and a big enough pack, but it might be a year or two if someone else would like to do the public service

Looking up toward the summit notch. Once you get to the top you turn left and traverse a ledge/ramp.

This is at the top of the notch. Walk through the hall and onto a ledge.

Route schematic.

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