Unknown climber 8-04-13 on Three Old Farts Young at Heart.

All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tow… > Three Old Farts Young… (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R)

Unknown climber 8-04-13 on Three Old Farts Young at Heart.

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Joseffa Meir leads up into the crux of "Three Old Farts Young At Heart (10d)" on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. Kre belays. Photo by Tony Bubb 4/'07.

Dave Stewart in the crux on P2 of 'Three Old Farts Young At Heart (5.10)' on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2004.

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CDC

Aug 27, 2013

“Unknown climber 8-04-13 on Three Old Farts Young at Heart.”

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Joseffa Meir leads up into the crux of "Three Old Farts Young At Heart (10d)" on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. Kre belays. Photo by Tony Bubb 4/'07.

Unknown climber 8-04-13 on Three Old Farts Young at Heart.

Dave Stewart in the crux on P2 of 'Three Old Farts Young At Heart (5.10)' on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2004.

Dave Stewart being chased by shadows on the Crux of 'Three Old Farts Young At Heart (5.10d)' on Redgarden Wall, in Eldo. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2004.

Dave Stewart follows P1 of 'Three Old Farts Young At Heart (5.10)' on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2004.

Dave Stewart follows up to the crux on P2 of 'Three Old Farts Young At Heart (5.10)' on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2004.

Pulling the roof on P2. The next couple of moves are pretty committing.

Above the roof on P2. You can get a rest via a precarious stem or by moving further right. Notice the sling Chuck is removing. It's on a razor sharp very thin flake. It might hold body weight. The first pitch of Old Farts is straight down from Chuck's left hand.

At the second bolt and the 10a crux. Move up and left to the arete on strenuous but positive slanting finger holds with mediocre feet.

After the scary and dangerous step over the roof. The gear is a small cam in an expanding flake that is scary to pull on let alone put gear behind. The next gear is at the bottom of the photo. On TR a while back I saw a possibility of a brass nut to the climber's left at foot level.<br>
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The climbing remains hard above this, but there is good gear in thin crack on the right after another move or two.

Hanging out on the big Huecos on the approach to the crux. Good cam right of Chuck. Move left from here then up a few moves to the second bolt.

Back on route at the start of the steep section of P3. Chuck is getting good gear in at waist level. The first bolt is about 10' below Chuck. We missed it by going too far right and into Pigeon Crack. The second bolt is up and left abouot 15' above Chuck. The rock up and right of Chuck looked quite climbable to me looking up from this belay stance, but from above it looks much less attractive--steep and rotten.

Chuck starting P3 10a. The route goes over the hang above Chuck then about 15' to a bolt that's difficult or impossible to see from here. We made the big mistake of moving down and right ito Pigeon Crack. The Vertigo Roof is barely visible at the far right of the photo.

A couple of climbers on Three Old Farts Young at Heart looking good!

Pulling the roof on P2. Same picture as previous one, but cropped for a close up. This climber climbed the crack directly, but both times I've done it I've stepped right of the crack for a stem rest above the lip of the roof.<br>
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This pitch has become the standard way to do Psychosis, although the original second pitch of Psychosis 9+, the red right facing dihedral left of the climber, is also good.

Pitch 2.

Chuck approaching the long crux section on P2. The right facing corner at the top left of the photo is the upper part of Psychosis P2 (5.9). Psychosis P3 (11a) is the dark crack through the big angling roof at the top center of the photo.