Phil Gleason, 5.10 chimney variation. P4, Burgundy Spire North Face. 1998

All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades > Washington Pass > Silver Star & W… > Burgundy Spire > N Face (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Phil Gleason, 5.10 chimney variation. P4, Burgundy Spire North Face. 1998

ID 108275470 ·

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Sam climbing Pitch 4 of the North Face of Burgundy Spire.

P4 fun 5.8 crack

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Keith Leaman

Aug 5, 2013

“Phil Gleason, 5.10 chimney variation. P4, Burgundy Spire North Face. 1998”

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Nearby Photos

Route overlay showing the Paisano (WR) + Burgundy (NF) link-up

A view of the N face of Burgundy of the 3rd and 4th pitches. The climbing team shown broke the 3rd pitch into two smaller pitches. I'd recommend climbing directly to the ledge where the upper climber is standing (annotated by an X) to start the 4th pitch.

This is the large chockstone you go under while walking across the large ledge following pitch 4 if finishing via the 5.8 pitches to the summit.

Sam on the summit of Burgundy Spire, with Chianti Spire behind.

big ledge atop P4

Looking down on the summit of Paisano Pinnacle and the big sandy ledge connecting the two spires to the right from atop the pitch 4 belay.

Leah Pappajohn on the last pitch in smokey summertime conditions

Above the "scary slab" is this impeccable 5.8 hand crack that leads to an exhilarating 5.9+ squeeze. Best pitch on the route!

If you choose the "scary slab" option as indicated in Ian's ST guide (which is a heady move of 5.8 protected by a micro nut) you will be rewarded with a stellar 5.8 hand crack and this 5.9+ flare and offwidth finish directly to the summit anchor. Well worth the price of admission. However, be solid on 5.9 OW because it's unlikely you hauled a #5 Camalot up there and that's what this beaut takes for pro! So good!

The final crack to the top.

Pitch 3 of the North Face of Burgundy Spire.

The second to last rappel. The rappels bring you down to near the start of the route.

Sam climbing Pitch 4 of the North Face of Burgundy Spire.

Phil Gleason, 5.10 chimney variation. P4, Burgundy Spire North Face. 1998

P4 fun 5.8 crack

You can rappel the route with a single 70m rope. This bolted rap station is useful for the second rappel.

The view under the giant boulder on the ledge traverse on the upper part of the North Face of Burgundy Spire.

left side handcrack

Looking up from pitch 2. Rough route of the North face drawn following center variation for pitch 3. The big sandy bowl which you scramble up into between pitches 2 & 3 is obscured by rocks in the foreground.

p6 downclimb & traverse. left corkscrew variation. incredible positioning.

p5. second half 5.8 face climbing past the ancient bolt above the handcrack. there's a solid #0.5 before the bolt and a crack just after to plug gear into.

p5 left variation off burgundy ledge. look for the fin on the left with a flaring hand crack.

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