The Rougeux Brothers, Mike (belaying) and Brian high on Eagle Dance. Photo from LT29 - Drew Peterson

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The Rougeux Brothers, Mike (belaying) and Brian high on Eagle Dance. Photo from LT29 - Drew Peterson

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Looking down the long pitch 1, top of Black Tower to the right.

Josie McKee following the crux pitch, with Mt Wilson in the background

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Drew Peterson

Apr 16, 2013

“The Rougeux Brothers, Mike (belaying) and Brian high on Eagle Dance. Photo from LT29 - Drew Peterson”

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Nearby Photos

Jimmy Newberry and Geoff "Madman" Conley re-racking on the 1st continuous ascent of Eagle Dance, Dec 1980. Photo by Phil Broscovak

Eagle Wall from the lower Painted Bowl with routes marked (note that bottom pitches of these routes are not visible due to the "foreground bump")

Mike Morley jugs the short A0 ladder on pitch 7.

Andy Hansen on the bolt ladder. Fall 2011. Taken with an old Olympus 35mm.<br>
www.mattkuehlphoto.com

Andy Hansen higher up. Typical rounded Eagle Dance edges. Fall 2011 Taken with an old Olympus 35mm.<br>
www.mattkuehlphoto.com

Looking down the long pitch 1, top of Black Tower to the right.

The Rougeux Brothers, Mike (belaying) and Brian high on Eagle Dance. Photo from LT29 - Drew Peterson

Josie McKee following the crux pitch, with Mt Wilson in the background

We spotted this peregrine on 15 November 2005, in the cave at the top of pitch 3. We saw him circling above us as we started the climb, again here, and later we saw him below us when we reached our high point at the top of p8.

The Wall Crawler aka Jimmy Newberry "warmin' up" at dawn in upper Oak Creek canyon on the way to Eagle Dance, Dec 1980.

Jared Coburn of Fort Collins, CO, on the crux pitch of Eagle Dance.

Bennett getting his aid on.

Looking down at P4, you can see the head of the eagle. This is a classic RR face pitch.

Looking up Pitch 4, photo by Jake Wyatt

This photo is taken looking up towards the top of eagle wall from the top of pitch 9. One more pitch will bring you to the top of Eagle Wall. But because there are no fixed anchors after the top of pitch 9, most parties do not climb the 10th pitch and they rap the route from the top of pitch 9. We toyed with the idea of climbing the 10th pitch so that we could officially top out, but this would mean a much longer and unknown descent, so we gave in to temptation of a quick descent and getting back to the car before dinnertime....

Pitch 9 of Eagle Dance.

Pitch 2.

Looking up Pitch 5

Pitch 4 of Eagle Dance.

Eagle Dance

Climbers on Eagle Dance from the approach. The bottom climber is at the top of pitch 1, the upper climber is about 3/4 of the way up pitch 2.

The "thrash and dangle" section with no thrashing!

The top of the short 5th pitch, right before the aid section.

Starting pitch 3 (from the false bivy).

Dawn, day two. Jorge said it would be an awesome bivy! But I think that in some ancient Andean dialect the word "bivy" must meen "ramp of endless sliding". Thanx Jorge!

The start of Pitch 5 of Eagle Dance (which we linked with Pitch 6).

Pitch 8 of Eagle Dance.

Looking down from the p3 (or p2, depending...) belay.

Eagle Dance

Nate starting the first pitch

One of the bolts was sticking about an inch out of the wall (as of March 2016, and by MP comments it has been that way for awhile), but fortunately it could be supplemented with an 0.5 cam. both james and i weighted this bolt and it held, but it was a tad unnerving.

You can see the start of pitch one to the right of the large pillar

The bolt ladder of Pitch 7 of Eagle Dance.

Dirt tiptoes up the first 10a pitch.

This photo shows the final rappel, from an anchor in the middle of the face just left of pitches and 2. It took us just under 1 hour to rappel the route. We made 9 rappels with a single 70m as follows: <br>
1. Top of Pitch 9 <br>
2. Top of Pitch 8 <br>
3. Top of Pitch 7 <br>
4. Top of Pitch 5 <br>
5. Top of Pitch 4 <br>
6. Top of Pitch 3 <br>
7. Halfway up Pitch 3 <br>
8. Top of Pitch 2 <br>
9. Middle of the face just left of Pitches 1 and 2

Geoff Conley at the false bivy below the Eagle's neck.

James climbing Pitch 1 of Eagle Dance.

John Hegyes aids the bolt ladder

Bolt ladder on Eagle Dance

Looking up from the base