The draws are on an old aid line that goes free at hard 12. The line to the left of it goes easier at 12 and is a better line in my opinion.
Apr 16, 2013
My buddy Jim Day freed that and he believes to be .12d??? There's a line to the right of that and it was freed a .12-. I believe Ryan Brooks did the FA. Good Climbing.
Feb 15, 2014
Anyone know when these bolts were put in? From what I can gather from reading about this area, it seems like not many folks are climbing out here. Just was curious if anyone had any information on them or knew if they were safe to use. Thinking of checking out this area this weekend. Thanks!
Apr 11, 2014
From the picture, they look like fat galvanized glue-ins like the ones previously used a lot at Rumney. I personally would probably trust them. Take a look at the condition of the glue and the apparent care the equiper used. Is the glue neat, with no gaps or air holes?. Unfortunately you can't see inside, but if it looks like the person took care in their craftsmanship, there is probably a better chance that they took the effort to make sure they knew what they were doing, cleaned the holes properly, made sure the glue fully filled the hole and used the right type.
Incidentally, for hard, solid rock like good granite, glue-ins are actually not the best way to go. The glue doesn't seep into the rock to become one with it. If you are going to use glue-ins, it is better now to go with the new climbing specific stainless steel ones. The prices have gotten much more reasonable, so there is less reason to use the galvanized ones.
Apr 11, 2014
Thanks for the info and insight M Sprague! If I end up out there this weekend I will definitely take a close look at them and let everyone know here what I see regarding their condition.
Made it out this way on Sunday morning to check out the area. They were definitely the "fat galvanized glue-ins". Whoever placed them appears to have taken care in doing so. Glue seemed clean and there were signs of somewhat recent climbers.
The only problem I saw was the actual placement and spacing of the bolts. The spacing between the first and second seemed a bit large. If you blew your second clip, you would fall a good 15 feet and definitely deck on the rocks below. I personally don't think I would use the bolts for that reason, not worth the fall to me.
Overall, this location seems to have a lot of potential. Looks like there are several potential areas to climb. The rock just needs a little tlc :)
Hoping to get out there again soon to do some climbing. Will post more info and pictures too.
Apr 14, 2014
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Incidentally, for hard, solid rock like good granite, glue-ins are actually not the best way to go. The glue doesn't seep into the rock to become one with it. If you are going to use glue-ins, it is better now to go with the new climbing specific stainless steel ones. The prices have gotten much more reasonable, so there is less reason to use the galvanized ones. Apr 11, 2014
NH
Thanks again! Apr 11, 2014
NH
Made it out this way on Sunday morning to check out the area. They were definitely the "fat galvanized glue-ins". Whoever placed them appears to have taken care in doing so. Glue seemed clean and there were signs of somewhat recent climbers.
The only problem I saw was the actual placement and spacing of the bolts. The spacing between the first and second seemed a bit large. If you blew your second clip, you would fall a good 15 feet and definitely deck on the rocks below. I personally don't think I would use the bolts for that reason, not worth the fall to me.
Overall, this location seems to have a lot of potential. Looks like there are several potential areas to climb. The rock just needs a little tlc :)
Hoping to get out there again soon to do some climbing. Will post more info and pictures too. Apr 14, 2014