First Pitch of 'Little Nukey'....Rumoured to be the best 5.8 face pitch in the Sierra.

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First Pitch of 'Little Nukey'....Rumoured to be the best 5.8 face pitch in the Sierra.

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To find the start of A Little Nukey (5.9), look for the obvious "shield" above you. You should be directly below or slightly right of the shield. The first bolt is a bit high (PG13) but not runout. If your first bolt looks really high, you're probably on an adjacent climb. The start is partway down a slope.

My solution to not having tri-cams for the solution pockets.

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4.6 from 8 votes

Rene' Ardesch

Feb 14, 2013

“First Pitch of 'Little Nukey'....Rumoured to be the best 5.8 face pitch in the Sierra.”

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To find the start of A Little Nukey (5.9), look for the obvious "shield" above you. You should be directly below or slightly right of the shield. The first bolt is a bit high (PG13) but not runout. If your first bolt looks really high, you're probably on an adjacent climb. The start is partway down a slope.

First Pitch of 'Little Nukey'....Rumoured to be the best 5.8 face pitch in the Sierra.

My solution to not having tri-cams for the solution pockets.

Topo showing A Little Nukey (5.9PG13). I would give this route 5 (out of 5) stars. There are a total of 6 pitches. I would recommend this route for a competent 5.9 leader. A few spots seem just a bit runout but nothing too severe. Note - the Moser topo in the Sequoia Kings Canyon Guide shows pitch 2 going right of the roof. Some creative trickster has now moved the bolts so it goes straight over the roof (5.9). Actually an improvement in the quality of the climb. Be sure to bring lots of long slings (and biners) for the upper pitches. You'll want Tri-cams for the "holes pitch". Plan on about 5 to 6 hours from car to car. I would say the climb is definitely 5.9, not 5.9-.

Photo showing the "cat walk" prior to the rap. It's short, easy walk to get to the rap station. First rap is 100'. Second rap is about 200'. I suspect you could do the 2nd rap at 100' and downclimb the rest on ledges to the right of the rap line. Careful not to rap off the end of your rope!

Climbering on the holes pitch (4)

This pulled back view makes the climb look intimidating... but if you make it past the first two bolts (crux), the rest of the climb is a breeze. Climbers are starting the 4th pitch, above the upside-down heart feature.

Kelly setting off on the final long pitch to the top.

A Little Nukey

A sea of white granite and Fall colors in full effect. Nearing the top of the 3rd pitch.

Jill all racked up and ready to rock. This is about 1/2 way from the rap station to the base of Little Nukey.

fun granite smearing

Mike A. on the classic climb, A Little Nukey. 5.9.

View of the rap route from the base of the rap. After rapping, follow ledges up and down that parallel the stream. A bit of scrambling is needed to get to the base of the climbs. Easily done in sneakers or Tevas.

Clipping the first set of bolts on the first pitch of 'A Little Nukey' (Power Dome). Who says you can't hike it with approach shoes? ;)

Amy Wilkins on the classic climb, A Little Nukey. 5.9.

Mike Arechiga on, A Little Nukey. 5.9

Pitch 1 - A Little Nukey

Eric skipping the tree belay at the top of pitch 4 and going direct to the top like a boss.

Kelly following up to the tree belay on pitch 4. Easy terrain here and many placement and route options.

My last tricam placements before an easy traverse to the 3rd anchor.

3rd belay station. Looking up at the roof that doesn't really need to be dealt with.

Kelly just hanging out at the 2nd belay in the flake.

from Rock and Ice #30

Starting the cruisy 4th pitch

up high on the climb

The best way to approach is to rap in to the climb. Start from the geological area parking lot and walk about 5 minutes to the right. Drop down the obvious "gash" and do a bit of down climbing. We did it in sneakers.