Mountain Project Logo

The route follows the left sided arrete on the south east side of the totem.  There are 6 bolts total, with a mixture of decent nut and cam placements in between if you are not a fan of the runout.  The crux in the slightly overhanging section is great and well protected.  Use a 2 foot running to avoid rope drag on the last bolt.  THIS ROUTE DOES NOT GO TO THE TOP!  It stops on a great belay ledge right below the large roof on the left side.  The summit of the totem is accessible via the Original totem route by moving left and placing some protective pieces after a single bolt (5.10c/d), or moving down and right to connect with the new Pathological Optimist (5.10c) route.  Both can take nuts or small cams at the very top if runnout isn't your favorite thing.
ID 107969634

Rate Photo
     Clear Rating
  0.0 from 0 votes

Nate Young
Jan 20, 2013
The route follows the left sided arrete on the south east side of the totem. There are 6 bolts total, with a mixture of decent nut and cam placements in between if you are not a fan of the runout. The crux in the slightly overhanging section is great and well protected. Use a 2 foot running to avoid rope drag on the last bolt. THIS ROUTE DOES NOT GO TO THE TOP! It stops on a great belay ledge right below the large roof on the left side. The summit of the totem is accessible via the Original totem route by moving left and placing some protective pieces after a single bolt (5.10c/d), or moving down and right to connect with the new Pathological Optimist (5.10c) route. Both can take nuts or small cams at the very top if runnout isn't your favorite thing.  

0 Comments

Nearby Photos