End of the exposed Black Face Pitch

All Locations > Wyoming > Grand Teton Nat… > Grand Teton > Lower Exum Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

End of the exposed Black Face Pitch

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Jim LaRue leading the arete variation to pitch 6.

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Grant Gerhard

Dec 20, 2012

“End of the exposed Black Face Pitch”

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Nearby Photos

Some fellow climbers were nice enough to send me this photo of myself near the top of the black face pitch.

View of the Exum Ridge from the Lower Saddle on the Grand Teton.

End of the exposed Black Face Pitch

Jim LaRue leading the arete variation to pitch 6.

Robert Henderson starting the Black Face (p5)

on the ridge

A view of the Petzolt with the famous "window pitch" from the Exum.

The Exum Ridge (sunlit ridge on the right). The Enclosure is the peak to the left, and the Upper Saddle is the saddle between them.

Following on the Black Face pitch.

Cue spotlight on the Full Exum Ridge

I know of no better photo or topo that shows the route better than this one. There is a similar above, but this is more complete. All 6 pitches can be seen.

Just another photo of the Exum Ridge from the Lower Saddle. The Chockstone Chimney (pitch 1) can be seen near the bottom of the ridge at the sun/shade line between the main wall and the detached pinnacle.

Looking down p1, the chockstone chimney.

Red is the correct approach ledge to the chimney of P1. Yellow is an alternative approach that adds 1/2 pitch.

Finishing up the black face pitch

brendan levine on the black face, september 13, 2015

Keen Butterworth ops for the harder direct option straight up the Black Face (5.10-?). Spectacular!

Starting up the Black Face, June 2011 (who brings a chalk bag alpine climbing?!?!?!)

Warren discovering the awkward crack on pitch 6. I thought this was the crux of the route.

The direct black face variation to the Lower Exum Ridge. July 2013

This is the map we got from the Jenny Lake ranger station. We had to stop in there to get backcountry camping permits and the ranger was very helpful. Snow conditions, approach info, route and descent beta, and he drew in the watering holes on the trail for us.

Freezing our asses off on the second pitch.

The crimpy V-slot pitch before the Black Face

Looking at P3+P4

The first pitch, where you can either follow the chimney on the left, or climb the face of the right as Warren is doing.

Jim LaRue in P4 chimney.

another shot of the Black face pitch

The lower saddle seen from The Moraines. As of 7/3/16 this was too sketchy for me and my partner as we didn't have crampons. We saw two people slide off near the high point of the snowy traverse the evening prior. Also, the fixed lines were not in - the ones from last year were in place (we believe) and looked very ratty.

Pitch 4 chimney, June 2011

Lower Exum Ridge

The route above P2. Slabs, V-slot pitch, Black Face, climbers above the Black Face on the off-balance hand crack pitch.

Looking down at the belay below the black face

Warren at the start of the 3rd pitch.

The uneven hand crack above the Black Face, just below Wall Street ledge.

Awkward P4 traverse below the V-Slot pitch

Carl Page leading P3 face after the left leaning crack. It's easy to combine P3+4.

George Bell on the Black Face (pitch 5)

Jonny on the Black Face. Photo by Brett Barrett.