AMC route
ID 107892267

Rate Photo
  5.0 from 2 votes

Brian Oelberg
Nov 17, 2012
AMC route
Whitefield, ME
ccaissie   Whitefield, ME
That's Brian leading. My first trad climb after toproping a few lines in Camden, ME, and the forbidden local quarry we were expelled from.

Don't miss the 5.12 "Gneiss Little Feet" on the house-sized Tumbledown Boulder.
Good strong hike up the Loop Trail. Intersection is marked by a flat rock clearing and a sizeable cairn as it levels, giving a first view of the entire South face and the climb on the extreme left of all the rockwork. Follow occasional yellow paint marks until the obvious bottom of the pitch.

A recent slide has exposed a hundred feet of slab on a face to the East, fresh red color, and interesting. Expect someone to put in a route there soon.

Nice (Gneiss) holds and cracks, used an old 1/4" bolted hanger and spotted a piton nearby, and one up on a ballsy overhang. Found a recent roped double anchor point and another double hanger, so I believe that we actually followed the route.

Perfect weather, great leader, superb views all the way and great open summit ridge walk-off. A jewell of an adventure.


Nov 18, 2012

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