I had the pleasure of staying with a friend who had been a guide on the Matterhorn@SEMICOLON@ he imparted many pearls of wisdom as well as an enormous amount of route finding beta. 4 hours to the summit is a great time standard and is a reasonable goal provided you can move through the slower teams as quickly/early as possible@SEMICOLON@ do not take a break until the Solvay Hut (this is the first place to stop and drink) and do not tarry anywhere along the ascent. Additionally the route is so long that conventional belayed climbing is simply too slow. Teams should consider short-roping and moving together. Additionally descend by down climbing and reserve rappelling only for the two Mosely slabs above and below the Solvay Hut.
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Kenny P
Oct 22, 2012
I had the pleasure of staying with a friend who had been a guide on the Matterhorn; he imparted many pearls of wisdom as well as an enormous amount of route finding beta. 4 hours to the summit is a great time standard and is a reasonable goal provided you can move through the slower teams as quickly/early as possible; do not take a break until the Solvay Hut (this is the first place to stop and drink) and do not tarry anywhere along the ascent. Additionally the route is so long that conventional belayed climbing is simply too slow. Teams should consider short-roping and moving together. Additionally descend by down climbing and reserve rappelling only for the two Mosely slabs above and below the Solvay Hut.

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