The upper section of pitch 1

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The upper section of pitch 1

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Tunelling inside the Great North Chimney.

rappin

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Dapper Dan Rogers

Aug 19, 2012

“The upper section of pitch 1”

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from the approach ridge

Route Overlay North Ridge<br>

Route Overlay North Ridge

reccomended

Jeff on the 5.9 corner pitch to the top. This is an excellent way to finish the route. Highly recommended over the 4th class option.

The only detraction to this great route is the extent of existing: route descriptions, comments of descriptions, and comments on comments. By adding this storied hand-drawn topo of the GNC, I join the long list of wonderfuls that have posted before me.

The roped climbing begins at the base of a crack that extends 140 feet up the ridge's west side to the shoulder above. I started the pitch here, although I think you can scramble up a bit higher from the left and start at the crack shown the next photo.

Pitch 3. Jeff chimneying to the chockstone belay. Only the last 10 feet or so of this pitch involve any chimneying.

Steeple in the middle

Pitch 5. The harder (5.9) but better option is to climb cracks in the summit block right of the leaning flake.

The ledge at the top of Pitch 4.

Pitch 4. This pitch tunnels through the chimney 40-50 feet and then heads up about 20 feet to a break in the ceiling and a ledge.

Approaching the chimney

Start of Pitch 1. You can start up either crack. The left start is 5.9 and the corner on the right is 5.8. I went left.

Not the best pic, but this gives an idea of the chimney width.

Tunelling inside the Great North Chimney.

The upper section of pitch 1

rappin

Hanging out in the bottom of the "second level" of the chimney. We shifted 40' toward the light from the chockstones at the top of P3 before climbing straight up to the top of P4.