Petit Grepon has the large gash starting up the middle and the Saber is on its right.

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Petit Grepon has the large gash starting up the middle and the Saber is on its right.

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The last few feet...

Jean M. on the SF. Petit Grepon, 1999.

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Matt Jones

Aug 10, 2012

“Petit Grepon has the large gash starting up the middle and the Saber is on its right.”

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Nearby Photos

View from Sharkstooth summit.

Sky Pond and the Petit Grepon.

The Petit Grepon from the Gash

Morning glow on Petit Grepon and the Sabre.

The Petit from the summit of the Saber.

Petit by full moon.

One of the premier alpine spires in the USA. Weekdays and early starts will avoid the crowds. Or do the uncrowded SW variation. Or the Saber next door. PREMIUM!

Sharks Tooth, Petit Grepon, and The Sabre. View from the south from Sky Pond. Summer 2001.

Climbers summiting the Petit Grepon, as seen from the Sabre in failing weather. Photo by T. Bubb 8/06.

Historic note "original" Grepon near Chamonix, France. Once "the hardest climb in the Alps", Mummery's first ascent route traversed the Grepon from L to R (N to S).

Marmots trying to steal my #1 Camalot on the second grassy tier of the Petit.

Le Petit @ sunrise.

First rays of dawn, it's time to go.

Jon heading up what was p2 for us, from the second terrace to the belay just below the crux.

Drew points out the obvious, ground-facing 4th and 5th rap stations on le Petit Grepon.

From camp.

Summit fin on Petit Grepon. Photo: Bob Horan.

Looking down on that ledge everyone is talking about.

The fifth rappel is off the Second Terrace and is a bit hard to find from above. Here's a photo looking up at the anchor location from below.

Petit and the Cathedral spires under the Milky Way.

Coiling the ropes after the rappel.

Photo credit: JP.

One of the sweetest summits in the state!

Simon Thompson...his face a mixture of elation from topping out and worry from some storm clouds out of view of the camera.

Morning light on Petit Grepon and The Saber from bivy.

Evening before at Sky Pond.

Summit photo.

Good thing there is a cache of socks up there.

Chillin' near Sky Pond. We made 7 of 8 pitches last September but retreated due to storms. We're planning on tackling the summit this year at the end of June.

Rappel #3.

Climbing out of the cave, starting the 3rd pitch

BriGuy on his way up!

The formation at sundown.

Trav on top of the fin.

Photo credit: JP.

Jayer Chung near the top of the last pitch.

The location of the elusive 3rd rappel station from the top (with permission from photog Josh Barua).

The wind beneath my feet. Looking down from the top back at Sky Pond.

The Petite (L) and the Saber (R) from the talus below.

At the base of the Petit.

Looking up at the Cathedral Spires from Sky Pond.

Upper Petit Grepon southeast view.

Almost at the summit of the Petit.

Getting down via the newly refurbished rap stations.

The sixth (and final) rap anchor.

On the ridge with good gear.
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Photo credit: JP.

Sky Pond.

The last few feet...

Petit Grepon has the large gash starting up the middle and the Saber is on its right.

Jean M. on the SF. Petit Grepon, 1999.

Hiking down after a bluebird day on the Petit in Sept. '09.

The Petit.

Amanda and Shannon on the 'Pizza Pan' belay (top of pitch 6).

Glimpse of the climbing on the upper pitches, next to last pitch.

Approximate locations of the South Face & Kor routes on the Petit & Saber.

Photographer: Rob Walters

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