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All Locations > California > Northeast Calif… > Lost Sierra > Mills Peak
Patrick Mulligan finishing the last pitch of Finger Mill, 5.11b at the Crack Shack, just below the Mills Peak lookout.
ID 107679172 ·
7. Side Effects 5.13a 15 m<br> Climb the slightly overhanging short yet very powerful face up thin edges. Stick clip first bolt.<br> Gear: quickdraws and stick to clip first bolt.<br> 8. Coulda-Shoulda-Woulda World 5.12 or 5.11c 40 m<br> 1p: 5.12 or 5.11a, 20 m. Climb a thin finger crack up slightly overhanging rock to ramp (5.12). Avoid the strenuous start by climbing the ramp that leads in from the right. Then follow the thin crack up and slightly right to chain anchor.<br> 2p: 5.11c, 20 m. Move up and right and into dihedral. Follow the thin crack up and left. Mantle arete and move up to anchor.<br> Gear: rack 000 to .75, extra micro to finger size nuts, finger size cams and smaller, extra 000 and 00, one .75<br> 9. Mills Dihedral Right 5.9 25 m<br> 1p: 5.9, 25 m. Climb the low-angled finger to hand corner crack up the large right-facing dihedral. Make a final mantle to ledge with anchor.<br> 2p: ?, 35 m. Project: Currently being cleaned. Continuation up the grand dihedral. <br> 10. Paraphernalia 5.10b/c 18 m<br> Climb the corner, fingers to hands to anchor. Fun but short.<br> Gear: Small finger to hand size gear, extra finger size cams.<br> 11. Crack Shack 5.12a 27 m<br> One of the most memorable and exciting climbs on the wall. Climb steps to reach base of the thin crack. Follow the thin and tricky to protect crack to the midway ledge and just below obvious diagonal crack. Strain though the diagonal crack, feet stretched out onto the ramp, and pull through finger locks, hand jams and tip locks to reach the ledge under the roof (Crack Shack). It’s hard to leave the shack, but move right out very steep yet protectable rock and pull over the roof to reach the anchors. <br> Gear: single rack to #000 to #2, triple finger and tips sizes, double 0.5, #1, #2, few long runners, micro nuts. <br> 12. Interplanetary Mission 5.12b/c 25 m<br> This sport climb ascends the bolted face and arete right of Crack Shack. Start on 5.10 face, mount the midway ledge and pump your way up steeper face and arete climbing.<br> Gear: quickdraws.<br> 13. Shack Crack 5.11b/c 31 m<br> Start on the crack leading to the obvious hand-to-fist crack that leads to midway ledge just right of Interplanetary. Clip first bolt of Voices then move left and climb up Interplanetary Mission clipping its first three bolts off the ledge, then move left into the crack and mantle into the Crack Shack. After Shacking, traverse left and then over the roof and mantle a ledge with anchor.<br> 14. Auditory Hallucination 5.11c/d 20 m<br> Start up hill from previous routes a top a large boulder. Mantle ledge to get to first bolt, and climb into and up slightly overhanging corner to anchor and voices.<br> Gear: quickdraws.<br>
1. Primos 5.10b, 20 m<br> Follow the far left side of the wall just right of the arete following face through horizontal cracks, small roofs and later a finger-to-hand crack.<br> Gear: small rack from 00 to #2 camalot.<br> 2. Devil’s Dandruff 5.10a 75 m<br> 1p: 5.9, 25 m. Follow the thin crack/face immediately left of M. D. L. <br> 2p: 5.8, 25 m. From the anchor, follow left crack along an arete. Move left at small ledge, clip bolt and move through a short face to reach more cracks that parallel the arete. When the arete crack finishes beneath roof in a corner, traverse left to bolted anchor.<br> 3p: 5.10a, 30 m. Climb the face following bolts and place the occasional gear along the way. As you near the top, one of the last bolts is hidden so don’t venture right to the bolt on the arete for Mills Dihedral Left. Belay at the top on one bolt and gear.<br> Gear: 000 to #2 camalot.<br> 3. Mills Dihedral Left (M. D. L.) 5.10c 85 m<br> 1p: 5.9, 30 m. Starting at the very bottom of the wall, follow the obvious left facing dihedral to anchor. 5.8 if you don’t do direct start. Confident climbers can run this together with pitch 2.<br> 2p: 5.10b or 5.11 variation, 15 m. Short pitch. Climb up into an under-cling crack and then reach over roof to a jug and mantle (5.10b) or climb up and left from anchor to a longer, harder hand-crack version of the roof (5.11). Mount either version and traverse left to belay on single bolt and gear. Pitch one and two can be combined into one.<br> 3p: 5.10a, 40 m. Climb the obvious corner just up and right of belay. Pass a bolt at a small roof, come out onto the face and back into the dihedral. Once the dihedral ends, continue up and left following a mixture of bolts and crack up the arete just right of Devil’s Dandruf. Belay from one bolt and gear at top.<br> Gear: 000 to #2 camalot. <br> 4. Clio Climbing Club 5.10a 80 m<br> 1p: 5.10a, 25 m. Starting at the very bottom of the wall, climb an obvious slightly overhanging finger crack into a dihedral. Belay at anchor.<br> 2p: 5.10a, 25 m. Climb the left-facing dihedral. Make a move right and over small roof and move up into the obvious right-facing dihedral. Traverse right out of dihedral and belay at two bolt anchor.<br> 3p: 5.9, 20 m. Don’t climb the dihedral to the right. From the anchor head slightly left and up into the obvious dihedral crack above. At the end of the dihedral and wall, belay at one bolt and gear anchor.<br> Gear: 000 to #2 camalot.<br> 5. Finger Mill 5.11b 70 m<br> 1p: 5.10a, 20 m. Follow a right-facing dihedral finger crack to bolted anchor.<br> 2p: 5.10c, 20 m. Continue up the finger crack through roofs to bolted anchor.<br> 3p: 5.11b, 20 m. Follow bolts up and slightly left into right facing dihedral. Once you pull out of the overhanging dihedral clip a bolt. Don’t continue up main dihedral. Move left onto a slopy ledge and up past another small roof protected by another bolt and finish on a thin finger crack. Great exposure over last roof before top.<br> Gear: a rack, extra 0.5 to 1 camalot.<br> 6. Withdrawal 5.11a 20 m<br> Climb the face just right of the first pitch of Finger Mill. Shares same first anchor as Finger Mill.<br> Gear: quickdraws.
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Daniel Seeliger
Jun 29, 2012
“Patrick Mulligan finishing the last pitch of Finger Mill, 5.11b at the Crack Shack, just below the Mills Peak lookout.”  

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Patrick Mulligan finishing the last pitch of Finger Mill, 5.11b at the Crack Shack, just below the Mills Peak lookout.
1. Primos 5.10b, 20 m<br> Follow the far left side of the wall just right of the arete following face through horizontal cracks, small roofs and later a finger-to-hand crack.<br> Gear: small rack from 00 to #2 camalot.<br> 2. Devil’s Dandruff 5.10a 75 m<br> 1p: 5.9, 25 m. Follow the thin crack/face immediately left of M. D. L. <br> 2p: 5.8, 25 m. From the anchor, follow left crack along an arete. Move left at small ledge, clip bolt and move through a short face to reach more cracks that parallel the arete. When the arete crack finishes beneath roof in a corner, traverse left to bolted anchor.<br> 3p: 5.10a, 30 m. Climb the face following bolts and place the occasional gear along the way. As you near the top, one of the last bolts is hidden so don’t venture right to the bolt on the arete for Mills Dihedral Left. Belay at the top on one bolt and gear.<br> Gear: 000 to #2 camalot.<br> 3. Mills Dihedral Left (M. D. L.) 5.10c 85 m<br> 1p: 5.9, 30 m. Starting at the very bottom of the wall, follow the obvious left facing dihedral to anchor. 5.8 if you don’t do direct start. Confident climbers can run this together with pitch 2.<br> 2p: 5.10b or 5.11 variation, 15 m. Short pitch. Climb up into an under-cling crack and then reach over roof to a jug and mantle (5.10b) or climb up and left from anchor to a longer, harder hand-crack version of the roof (5.11). Mount either version and traverse left to belay on single bolt and gear. Pitch one and two can be combined into one.<br> 3p: 5.10a, 40 m. Climb the obvious corner just up and right of belay. Pass a bolt at a small roof, come out onto the face and back into the dihedral. Once the dihedral ends, continue up and left following a mixture of bolts and crack up the arete just right of Devil’s Dandruf. Belay from one bolt and gear at top.<br> Gear: 000 to #2 camalot. <br> 4. Clio Climbing Club 5.10a 80 m<br> 1p: 5.10a, 25 m. Starting at the very bottom of the wall, climb an obvious slightly overhanging finger crack into a dihedral. Belay at anchor.<br> 2p: 5.10a, 25 m. Climb the left-facing dihedral. Make a move right and over small roof and move up into the obvious right-facing dihedral. Traverse right out of dihedral and belay at two bolt anchor.<br> 3p: 5.9, 20 m. Don’t climb the dihedral to the right. From the anchor head slightly left and up into the obvious dihedral crack above. At the end of the dihedral and wall, belay at one bolt and gear anchor.<br> Gear: 000 to #2 camalot.<br> 5. Finger Mill 5.11b 70 m<br> 1p: 5.10a, 20 m. Follow a right-facing dihedral finger crack to bolted anchor.<br> 2p: 5.10c, 20 m. Continue up the finger crack through roofs to bolted anchor.<br> 3p: 5.11b, 20 m. Follow bolts up and slightly left into right facing dihedral. Once you pull out of the overhanging dihedral clip a bolt. Don’t continue up main dihedral. Move left onto a slopy ledge and up past another small roof protected by another bolt and finish on a thin finger crack. Great exposure over last roof before top.<br> Gear: a rack, extra 0.5 to 1 camalot.<br> 6. Withdrawal 5.11a 20 m<br> Climb the face just right of the first pitch of Finger Mill. Shares same first anchor as Finger Mill.<br> Gear: quickdraws.
7. Side Effects 5.13a 15 m<br> Climb the slightly overhanging short yet very powerful face up thin edges. Stick clip first bolt.<br> Gear: quickdraws and stick to clip first bolt.<br> 8. Coulda-Shoulda-Woulda World 5.12 or 5.11c 40 m<br> 1p: 5.12 or 5.11a, 20 m. Climb a thin finger crack up slightly overhanging rock to ramp (5.12). Avoid the strenuous start by climbing the ramp that leads in from the right. Then follow the thin crack up and slightly right to chain anchor.<br> 2p: 5.11c, 20 m. Move up and right and into dihedral. Follow the thin crack up and left. Mantle arete and move up to anchor.<br> Gear: rack 000 to .75, extra micro to finger size nuts, finger size cams and smaller, extra 000 and 00, one .75<br> 9. Mills Dihedral Right 5.9 25 m<br> 1p: 5.9, 25 m. Climb the low-angled finger to hand corner crack up the large right-facing dihedral. Make a final mantle to ledge with anchor.<br> 2p: ?, 35 m. Project: Currently being cleaned. Continuation up the grand dihedral. <br> 10. Paraphernalia 5.10b/c 18 m<br> Climb the corner, fingers to hands to anchor. Fun but short.<br> Gear: Small finger to hand size gear, extra finger size cams.<br> 11. Crack Shack 5.12a 27 m<br> One of the most memorable and exciting climbs on the wall. Climb steps to reach base of the thin crack. Follow the thin and tricky to protect crack to the midway ledge and just below obvious diagonal crack. Strain though the diagonal crack, feet stretched out onto the ramp, and pull through finger locks, hand jams and tip locks to reach the ledge under the roof (Crack Shack). It’s hard to leave the shack, but move right out very steep yet protectable rock and pull over the roof to reach the anchors. <br> Gear: single rack to #000 to #2, triple finger and tips sizes, double 0.5, #1, #2, few long runners, micro nuts. <br> 12. Interplanetary Mission 5.12b/c 25 m<br> This sport climb ascends the bolted face and arete right of Crack Shack. Start on 5.10 face, mount the midway ledge and pump your way up steeper face and arete climbing.<br> Gear: quickdraws.<br> 13. Shack Crack 5.11b/c 31 m<br> Start on the crack leading to the obvious hand-to-fist crack that leads to midway ledge just right of Interplanetary. Clip first bolt of Voices then move left and climb up Interplanetary Mission clipping its first three bolts off the ledge, then move left into the crack and mantle into the Crack Shack. After Shacking, traverse left and then over the roof and mantle a ledge with anchor.<br> 14. Auditory Hallucination 5.11c/d 20 m<br> Start up hill from previous routes a top a large boulder. Mantle ledge to get to first bolt, and climb into and up slightly overhanging corner to anchor and voices.<br> Gear: quickdraws.<br>

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Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV