The north side of Mount Temple

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Banff NP > Valley of the T… > Mt Temple > Greenwood-Jones (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b)

The north side of Mount Temple

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Looking down the limestone slab on Headwall Pitch 3.

Looking back at Glenn as I began the leftward traverse at about 2/3 height.

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Hans

Jun 25, 2012

“The north side of Mount Temple”

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Sketchy traverse below loose chossy wall, just before final headwall.

Headwall Pitch 2.

Looking down the limestone slab on Headwall Pitch 3.

The north side of Mount Temple

Looking back at Glenn as I began the leftward traverse at about 2/3 height.

Chris just after the 5.10 traverse move on headwall Pitch 3. This move is protected by a piton high and left. There are also a few pitons n the face to protect this section. The exposure is great!

The route starts by climbing through the quartzite cliff just left of the waterfall (at the top of the snowfield in the photo).

The final snow crest on the East Ridge. This is where Greenwood-Jones intersects the East Ridge route.

The steep quartzite cliff at the start of the route. We soloed it. This is about 5.4 but pretty rounded/polished rock, and I put on rock shoes for it.

Nearing the summit along the final section of the East Ridge.

Typical rock near the beginning of the route.

Headwall pitch 1.

The route description says to climb though a "cave-like chimney" in the area where the rock quality deteriorates and the route enters a band of "chocolate-colored rock." This may or may not be the correct chimney, but either way it was pretty fun to climb and worked quite well.

Mount Temple as seen from the Lake Louise townsite. The Greenwood-Jones climbs the buttress that separates sun from shadow in the middle-left of the photo.

The handcrack pitch. The crux pitch is next.

The alcove belay. From here we climbed four pitches to the top of the buttress. The first of these traversed around the left side of this small roof to a hand crack.

Looking down from the traverse pitch.

We simulclimbed to here, then pitched out the rest of the route to the top of the buttress.

5.7ish climbing on the crest midway up the buttress. We simulclimbed this.

Chossy headwall about 3/4 of the way up the buttress. Traverse left here (see separate photo of traverse).

Looking down from low on the route.

Looking up from end of traverse under the steep chossy wall. I climbed the crack system on the right back up to the crest (all the way to the base of the final headwall) in a long 60m lead. The climbing in the first half was 5.7ish and the climbing in the second half was very loose and unprotectable. Might also be able to climb the groove on the left, may be easier but probably looser.

The approximate line of ascent.

The easy scrambling at the base of the Greenwood-Jones.

Lake Annette as seen from low on the route.

Headwall Pitch 3.

Scree sllloooggg between top of headwall and East Ridge.

Nearing top of Headwall Pitch 3 and the end of the roped climbing on the route.

The north side of Mount Temple. The Greenwood-Jones climbs the vague buttress below the very left edge of the summit glacier.