The north side of Mount Temple

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The north side of Mount Temple

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Headwall Pitch 2.

Headwall Pitch 3.

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Hans

Jun 25, 2012

“The north side of Mount Temple”

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Looking down the limestone slab on Headwall Pitch 3.

Sketchy traverse below loose chossy wall, just before final headwall.

The approximate line of ascent.

Chris just after the 5.10 traverse move on headwall Pitch 3. This move is protected by a piton high and left. There are also a few pitons n the face to protect this section. The exposure is great!

Headwall pitch 1.

The route description says to climb though a "cave-like chimney" in the area where the rock quality deteriorates and the route enters a band of "chocolate-colored rock." This may or may not be the correct chimney, but either way it was pretty fun to climb and worked quite well.

5.7ish climbing on the crest midway up the buttress. We simulclimbed this.

The final snow crest on the East Ridge. This is where Greenwood-Jones intersects the East Ridge route.

Looking back at Glenn as I began the leftward traverse at about 2/3 height.

We simulclimbed to here, then pitched out the rest of the route to the top of the buttress.

Typical rock near the beginning of the route.

Lake Annette as seen from low on the route.

Looking down from low on the route.

The easy scrambling at the base of the Greenwood-Jones.

Nearing the summit along the final section of the East Ridge.

The steep quartzite cliff at the start of the route. We soloed it. This is about 5.4 but pretty rounded/polished rock, and I put on rock shoes for it.

Looking down from the traverse pitch.

The route starts by climbing through the quartzite cliff just left of the waterfall (at the top of the snowfield in the photo).

The alcove belay. From here we climbed four pitches to the top of the buttress. The first of these traversed around the left side of this small roof to a hand crack.

Chossy headwall about 3/4 of the way up the buttress. Traverse left here (see separate photo of traverse).

The handcrack pitch. The crux pitch is next.

Looking up from end of traverse under the steep chossy wall. I climbed the crack system on the right back up to the crest (all the way to the base of the final headwall) in a long 60m lead. The climbing in the first half was 5.7ish and the climbing in the second half was very loose and unprotectable. Might also be able to climb the groove on the left, may be easier but probably looser.

Mount Temple as seen from the Lake Louise townsite. The Greenwood-Jones climbs the buttress that separates sun from shadow in the middle-left of the photo.

Headwall Pitch 2.

The north side of Mount Temple

Headwall Pitch 3.

Scree sllloooggg between top of headwall and East Ridge.

Nearing top of Headwall Pitch 3 and the end of the roped climbing on the route.

The north side of Mount Temple. The Greenwood-Jones climbs the vague buttress below the very left edge of the summit glacier.