Enjoying a fine fall day high on the route

All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Squaw Peak > Squawstruck (5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c)

Enjoying a fine fall day high on the route

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Starting up the crux pitch

Eric leading out of the cave pitch

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Stu Ritchie

Apr 5, 2012

“Enjoying a fine fall day high on the route”

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Topo with some retreat options marked.

Totally bomber pro from one of my early forays onto Squaw Peak.

Nice shade right before the 12th pitch

Squaw Peak from Y Mountain

Flapper 1 of 5 on this climb. Bring your A-game, bring motivation, bring ibuprofen, and BRING TAPE!
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*Note that it can also come in handy if your old shoes randomly decide to rip in half with 12 pitches to go...

Me topping out at the summit. Too stoked to get my shoes off.

Cool view of pitches 3-8

A view of Guy at the cave with another group headed up pitch 12.

The "crux" pitch 14 linked into 15 (although I felt a couple other pitches were perhaps more technical than pitch 14).

Pitches 3-8. Couple of parties are visible at the top of pitch 6.

Near the top - Pitch 22 of Squawstruck

Summit photo with Rollin

Thomas Gappmayer enjoying the belay before pitch 16.

Tristan and Thomas on pitch 16, taken from the trail.

The view from the top of pitch 1 to the top of pitch 2.

Tristan after the leap of faith headed up pitch 2.

Thomas Gappmayer at the belay on top of pitch 22. Success!

Modified beta topo: adjusted ratings, reworded descriptions, clarified directions. Print & climb with it in your pocket. My opinions from 2 ascents- may adjust this further if I climb it again.

Can't miss the diving board atop pitch 8, make sure to wave to the hikers

The cave/mine at the base of pitch 12 is a great place to have lunch in the shade.

Tristan moving up to the rest before the hard crux of pitch 14. This was the high point on our FA attempt.

Pitch two. Fun blocky climbing to a corner which demands good footwork.

My favorite pitch in the first 8: Frosted Flakes. Just look at how white the limestone is! And it is very solid with great holds and a fantastic roof with a perfect jug for pulling.

Alexis Crellin after Pitch 14 roof.

Eric E. on the 14th corner pitch- Sept 2015

Brennan sending the thin Pitch 19

Map of the descent trail.

View from the top

3AM top-out!
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There are several different walls on this route. Even though we studied the topo beforehand, we get lost looking for the summit wall at night (it's much further to the right than I thought). Bring headlamps and be ready to climb at night!

Starting up pitch one.

Leading the 8th pitch of squawstruck

Beginning the last few pitches on the uppermost headwall.

Christian Burrell on pitch 4. Dec 2008.

Diving Board, a short walk west from top of Pitch 8

The exposure is great throughout the whole route.

Pitch 22- the final pitch

On the diving board 100' west of top of pitch 8

Getting high

Me on pitch 8. Dec 2008.

Pitch one of the behemoth

Starting up the crux pitch

Enjoying a fine fall day high on the route

Eric leading out of the cave pitch

Late night Summit 9/2015

Me on pitch 3. Dec 2008.

Me on pitch 1. Dec 2008.

Looking down at the top of the Pitch 1 buttress from a little ways up Pitch 2.

Approach beta pic.

Looking back across the leap of faith to Christian belaying from the pitch 1 tower.

Cave before start of pitch 12

Start of pitch 3. This shows the walk between the top of two and the start of 3.

Looking upcanyon

A busy day on Squawstruck.

Pitch 12 with cave at base

Tristan and Thomas on pitch 16, taken from the trail (with a bit more zoom than the last photo).

Shot from top of Squaw Peak just after sunset

The very sustained 5.10 pitch 12.

Me on pitch 6. Dec 2008.

Just after the tough steep finger crack start to 13. One of the cruxes of the whole route is just above him.

Bryce having fun on Squawstruck