Excited to make the summit despite severe weather warnings....

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All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > The Diamond > Casual Route (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a)

Excited to make the summit despite severe weather warnings....

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A big "Thumb's Up" a little ways up the Great Dihedral pitches.

Heading up the North Chimney, behind a couple of parties....

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3.5 from 2 votes

ShaneGlazier

Jan 23, 2012

“Excited to make the summit despite severe weather warnings....”

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A pair of climbers on the 5.9 finger crack (P2) and the 5.7 traverse (P3). These pitches are easily linked with a 60M rope. Linking these pitches will save time, and reduce the wait for climbers behind you.

Climbers on The Diamond.

Look how beautiful she is over there- safely holding my rope with precise care. There is no doubt that if I come off on this slippery traverse, she's got me. That belayer chick in the background behind my Camalot is pretty OK too.

Rapping off the Casual Route in a late June snowstorm.

Best 5.8 corner in the Park....<br>
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I highly recommend linking the next two pitches in a 195 foot lead to the Yellow Bivy Ledge.

Climbers on Casual Route, Yellow Wall, Black Dagger, and Soma.<br>

Panorama from the Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge.

Sunrise on the Diamond.

Trevor Nydam looking down the D1 pillar.

Josh in a Sea of Granite on the 2nd pitch of Casual Route

Darth Vader on the Bivy Ledge.

Looking over the valley and my custom-fitted shoes.

Half way up the Casual Route.

Luke Taylor chillin' before the dihedral pitch.

John Carter ascends the Casual Route, July 23, 2011.<br>
Josh Wharton is seen at right, ticking the FFA of Dunn-Westbay. <br>
Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.

Topo of the route.

The warm-up.

Looking down the initial 5.9 pitch.

Trevor Nydam starting into the crux moves

Eric Everson on the Table Ledge traverse at the top of the Casual Route on the Diamond.

Pulling through the crux....

Sandy at the hanging belay after the traverse pitch. The picture is taken from Pervertical Sanctuary.

Donny working it on the crux. Notice the fog in the background, its rising fast and we have 1 more pitch!

As seen from high on Directissima.<br>
The route climbs a crack at the center of the photo up to the right side of the curving gray slab. Then way left to the left of the two right facing corners. A crack above that leads to Table Ledge at the top left of the photo.

Phil Wortmann on the top Table Ledge traverse on Casual Route. (about 2pm)

Gonzalo Cabeza on the Casual Route. Party seen below us.

Shane Leva coming up the Enduro-Corner.

Father and son, John and Bob Siegrist on Eroica (5.12), seen from the Casual Route. John is leading.

An unknown climber leading the stellar dihedral.

Pitch 3 (after the first traverse) with the dihedral pitch visible above.

The 5.fun traverse on P2/P3.

The Diamond as seen from Chasm View.

Clouds gather... An odd rush of clouds create odd light on the Diamond. Mark Speiker on Table Ledge. Photo by Tony Bubb, 1997.

Cranking hard through the crux!!

I just got here!! Now we climb what!?! That big rock over there!?! Good morning wilderness!!

Fran nearing the end of the 5.7 traverse.

Gonzalo about to come into the crux.

Panorama from Table Ledge. We were the only party on the Casual that day, one other party on Pervertical and that was it for the whole Diamond. Super weather!

Enjoying the view from the top of pitch 6.

Early morning light on the Diamond.

Party ahead of us, just finishing the Table Ledge traverse.

Max sewing up the last traverse pitch to Table Ledge

The 10a crux, it's super short. Crank down, keep moving, and you'll be good.

Shane Glazier anchored in.

There are a few fixed pieces of gear at this point in THE traverse. If you traverse too low, you'll miss the gear.

Mark near the end of the first pitch.

Looking up the squeeze.

A big "Thumb's Up" a little ways up the Great Dihedral pitches.

Excited to make the summit despite severe weather warnings....

Heading up the North Chimney, behind a couple of parties....

Douglas finishing the crux moves. You can see other parties on the glacier below.

Casual Route.

Belaying at pitch 4.

Following the 'mushroom' pitch on an early season ascent of The Casual Route. Photo by Andy Grauch, 6-18-11.

Douglas about to follow the 5.7 traverse pitch.

Mark Roth leading the fouth pitch Dihedral and doing it "casually".

5.9 pitch before the traverse.

The 5.9 section below the start of the 5.7 traverse.

The end of the first traverse. The North Chimney is visible below as well as a pair of climbers on Broadway preparing to start the D1 Pillar.

Hanging Belay after the traverse.

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ShaneGlazier

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