Excited to make the summit despite severe weather warnings....

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All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > The Diamond > Casual Route (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a)

Excited to make the summit despite severe weather warnings....

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Looking up the squeeze.

Douglas finishing the crux moves. You can see other parties on the glacier below.

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3.5 from 2 votes

ShaneGlazier

Jan 23, 2012

“Excited to make the summit despite severe weather warnings....”

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A pair of climbers on the 5.9 finger crack (P2) and the 5.7 traverse (P3). These pitches are easily linked with a 60M rope. Linking these pitches will save time, and reduce the wait for climbers behind you.

Climbers on The Diamond.

Look how beautiful she is over there- safely holding my rope with precise care. There is no doubt that if I come off on this slippery traverse, she's got me. That belayer chick in the background behind my Camalot is pretty OK too.

Rapping off the Casual Route in a late June snowstorm.

Best 5.8 corner in the Park....<br>
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I highly recommend linking the next two pitches in a 195 foot lead to the Yellow Bivy Ledge.

Climbers on Casual Route, Yellow Wall, Black Dagger, and Soma.<br>

Panorama from the Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge.

Trevor Nydam looking down the D1 pillar.

Sunrise on the Diamond.

Josh in a Sea of Granite on the 2nd pitch of Casual Route

Darth Vader on the Bivy Ledge.

Looking over the valley and my custom-fitted shoes.

John Carter ascends the Casual Route, July 23, 2011.<br>
Josh Wharton is seen at right, ticking the FFA of Dunn-Westbay. <br>
Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.

Half way up the Casual Route.

Luke Taylor chillin' before the dihedral pitch.

Topo of the route.

The warm-up.

Looking down the initial 5.9 pitch.

Father and son, John and Bob Siegrist on Eroica (5.12), seen from the Casual Route. John is leading.

A route overlay of Pervertical Sanctuary & Casual Route.

Trevor Nydam starting into the crux moves

Sandy at the hanging belay after the traverse pitch. The picture is taken from Pervertical Sanctuary.

The Diamond as seen from Chasm View.

As seen from high on Directissima.<br>
The route climbs a crack at the center of the photo up to the right side of the curving gray slab. Then way left to the left of the two right facing corners. A crack above that leads to Table Ledge at the top left of the photo.

Eric Everson on the Table Ledge traverse at the top of the Casual Route on the Diamond.

Donny working it on the crux. Notice the fog in the background, its rising fast and we have 1 more pitch!

Pulling through the crux....

Enjoying the view from the top of pitch 6.

Gonzalo Cabeza on the Casual Route. Party seen below us.

Phil Wortmann on the top Table Ledge traverse on Casual Route. (about 2pm)

Shane Leva coming up the Enduro-Corner.

Pitch 3 (after the first traverse) with the dihedral pitch visible above.

The 5.fun traverse on P2/P3.

An unknown climber leading the stellar dihedral.

Clouds gather... An odd rush of clouds create odd light on the Diamond. Mark Speiker on Table Ledge. Photo by Tony Bubb, 1997.

Cranking hard through the crux!!

Panorama from Table Ledge. We were the only party on the Casual that day, one other party on Pervertical and that was it for the whole Diamond. Super weather!

Fran nearing the end of the 5.7 traverse.

Gonzalo about to come into the crux.

I just got here!! Now we climb what!?! That big rock over there!?! Good morning wilderness!!

Max sewing up the last traverse pitch to Table Ledge

The 10a crux, it's super short. Crank down, keep moving, and you'll be good.

Early morning light on the Diamond.

Party ahead of us, just finishing the Table Ledge traverse.

Shane Glazier anchored in.

There are a few fixed pieces of gear at this point in THE traverse. If you traverse too low, you'll miss the gear.

Mark near the end of the first pitch.

Jenny on the Cas'.

Heading up the North Chimney, behind a couple of parties....

A big "Thumb's Up" a little ways up the Great Dihedral pitches.

Looking up the squeeze.

Excited to make the summit despite severe weather warnings....

Douglas finishing the crux moves. You can see other parties on the glacier below.

Belaying at pitch 4.

Casual Route.

The end of the first traverse. The North Chimney is visible below as well as a pair of climbers on Broadway preparing to start the D1 Pillar.

5.9 pitch before the traverse.

Bryce on the first pitch of Pervertical.

Douglas about to follow the 5.7 traverse pitch.

Mark Roth leading the fouth pitch Dihedral and doing it "casually".

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ShaneGlazier

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