John Carter ascends the Casual Route, July 23, 2011. <br> Josh Wharton is seen at right, ticking the FFA of Dunn-Westbay. <br> Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Diamond > Casual Route (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a)

John Carter ascends the Casual Route, July 23, 2011.<br>
Josh Wharton is seen at right, ticking the FFA of Dunn-Westbay. <br>
Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.

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A photo route overlay of Pervertical Sanctuary and Casual Route.

Look how beautiful she is over there- safely holding my rope with precise care. There is no doubt that if I come off on this slippery traverse, she's got me. That belayer chick in the background behind my Camalot is pretty OK too.

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4.8 from 17 votes

dancesatmoonrise

Sep 26, 2011

“John Carter ascends the Casual Route, July 23, 2011.
Josh Wharton is seen at right, ticking the FFA of Dunn-Westbay.
Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.”

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Nearby Photos

A pair of climbers on the 5.9 finger crack (P2) and the 5.7 traverse (P3). These pitches are easily linked with a 60m rope. Linking these pitches will save time, and reduce the wait for climbers behind you.

A photo route overlay of Pervertical Sanctuary and Casual Route.

John Carter ascends the Casual Route, July 23, 2011.<br>
Josh Wharton is seen at right, ticking the FFA of Dunn-Westbay. <br>
Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.

Look how beautiful she is over there- safely holding my rope with precise care. There is no doubt that if I come off on this slippery traverse, she's got me. That belayer chick in the background behind my Camalot is pretty OK too.

Best 5.8 corner in the Park....<br>
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I highly recommend linking the next two pitches in a 195 foot lead to the Yellow Bivy Ledge.

Panorama from the Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge.

Rapping off the Casual Route in a late June snowstorm.

Every single route on the east face of Long's Peak. A full caption is in comments.

Sunrise on the Diamond.

Climbers on The Diamond.

Trevor Nydam looking down the D1 pillar.

Climbers on Casual Route, Yellow Wall, Black Dagger, and Soma.<br>

Josh in a Sea of Granite on the 2nd pitch of Casual Route

Darth Vader on the Bivy Ledge.

Trevor Nydam starting into the crux moves.

Looking over the valley and my custom-fitted shoes.

A photo route overlay of Casual Route.

This is the final traverse pitch of the Casual Route.

The warm-up.

Enjoying the view from the top of pitch 6.

Donny working it on the crux. Notice the fog in the background, its rising fast and we have 1 more pitch!

The last pitch of Casual Route. Nate Erickson. Sept., '13.

Topo of the route.

No biggie, just Alex Honnold simulclimbing on through the 3rd pitch traverse, and Tommy Caldwell was on the other end.

Eric Everson on the Table Ledge traverse at the top of the Casual Route on the Diamond.

Gonzalo Cabeza on the Casual Route. Party seen below us.

Sandy at the hanging belay after the traverse pitch. The picture is taken from Pervertical Sanctuary.

Luke Taylor chillin' before the dihedral pitch.

Pulling through the crux....

Father and son, John and Bob Siegrist on Eroica (5.12), seen from the Casual Route. John is leading.

Half way up the Casual Route.

Shane Leva coming up the Enduro-Corner.

Clouds gather... An odd rush of clouds create odd light on the Diamond. Mark Speiker on Table Ledge.
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<br>
Photo by Tony Bubb, 1997.

Early morning light on the Diamond.

A picture taken atop the D1 pillar. From here, you can pretty much see the next 3 pitches of the route: continue up the 5.9 crack above, traverse left once you reach a fixed belay, and continue to a good stance 1 pitch below the 2 right-facing dihedrals.

Starting up pitch 6. The section shown in the photo (i.e. between where I belayed and the Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge 50 feet higher) could be combined with either pitch 6 or pitch 5.

Looking down the initial 5.9 pitch.

Alex simul-ing past us following Tommy on the CDUL - July 17, 2020. This is the P3 belay looking at P4 + P5. Them boys were cookin'.

An unknown climber leading the stellar dihedral.

Nate Erickson mid-2nd pitch. Sept., '13.

Pitch 6 chimney.

As seen from high on Directissima.<br>
The route climbs a crack at the center of the photo up to the right side of the curving gray slab. Then way left to the left of the two right facing corners. A crack above that leads to Table Ledge at the top left of the photo.

The Diamond as seen from Chasm View.

Looking up the squeeze.

The 5.fun traverse on P2/P3.

Phil Wortmann on the top Table Ledge traverse on Casual Route. (about 2pm)

Japhy sets up rappels after the final pitch.

Pitch 6 above the Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge.

At the crux on the Casual Route.
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<br>
Photo taken by Kelly Hartman.

The 10a crux, it's super short. Crank down, keep moving, and you'll be good.

Pitch 3 (after the first traverse) with the dihedral pitch visible above.

Panorama from Table Ledge. We were the only party on the Casual that day, one other party on Pervertical and that was it for the whole Diamond. Super weather!

Gonzalo about to come into the crux.

Fran nearing the end of the 5.7 traverse.

A photo route overlay of the Casual Route.

There are a few fixed pieces of gear at this point in THE traverse. If you traverse too low, you'll miss the gear.

I just got here!! Now we climb what!?! That big rock over there!?! Good morning wilderness!!

A distant photo zoomed in to show me standing at the start of pitch 7. A video summary of our climb is also on youtube.

Sam Dorsey on the traverse.

Max sewing up the last traverse pitch to Table Ledge

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