Simon's improvisational gear placement in the Honeymoon Chimney.

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Simon's improvisational gear placement in the Honeymoon Chimney.

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Ben Faber on pitch 1 of the Priest, Castle Valley. Photo: Kevin Cropp.

climber on 03-21-2010

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Peter Blank

Sep 11, 2011

“Simon's improvisational gear placement in the Honeymoon Chimney.”

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Simon's improvisational gear placement in the Honeymoon Chimney.

climber on 03-21-2010

Bailey leading up the second pitch. With enough updraft I bet you wouldn't even need pro!

bird's eye view

The third pitch step across. I aided off of the ancient bolts, but did link p2 and 3 with a 70m. Belated at the second funky bolt after the traverse below the finger crack which is not the last pitch.

Improbable geometry of the 2nd pitch.

Emily finishing up the crux pitch. photo by chelsea morgan from the top of the nuns

Nico leading pitch 3, photos taken from summit of Nuns

Rob tops out on the Priest

Nico has stepped across

Marvin Porter at the base c 1983

Looking up after entering the squeeze on pitch 1. It was super tight.

Nico leading pitch 3; about to step across onto the arete

This is where the tunnelling begins.

Legends in the summit register.

I opted for my Valley Giant for P1 b/c I suck at wide.

About to lunge over onto the face.

Joseffa Meir gets ready to stem out onto the calcite edges on P3 of 'Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)' on The Priest. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.

Summit view looking west to Sister Superior and Colorado River.

rope management for windy raps

Matt on the cushy P1 belay ledge

Roger Ellsworth on the super-cool third pitch.

Jay Hicks deep in the Priest on the second pitch.

looking toward Parriot Mesa

Two Germans on top of the Priest as seen from the Nun

a great read

Leading the first pitch. I wish I had some big bros!

Joseffa Meir traverses out to some wild exposure on 'Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)'. Note the tilt in the background- this section of climbing is actually steeper than it looks at first. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.

Just above the second pin on P1. Photo by John Korfmacher.

looking back to the Priest

P3 Wheeeeeee!!!

Route topo. I'll try to replace this with a better photo later.

For most of P1, this was standard. A lot of it was much more tipped out or you had to throw it over your shoulder for a bit. Bring a VG12 in addition to the VG9 if you want to make this super chill...

Nico leading pitch 3; just before stepping across onto the arete

Looking down joyous P1. Note that you can get a bomber nut in the wall near the top of the lower block, and there is a chockstone just before the first bolt. After that you're on your own to the drilled angle and chockstone at the entry to the squeeze.

the Priest

Matt about to top out on the P2 belay. The chimney created an intense wind tunnel.

heading back to the car

Freeing the aid ladder with top rope courage.

last views of the Rectory

Matt about to start the business bit on P4.

Tony Bubb a few meters up Honeymoon Chimney's first pitch, where it is merely awkward, but before it turns to a grovel. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 2003.

summit!

Getting ready for my morning cardio workout. The first crux is where a rock fin on the right pinches down. The next one is turning the corner into the squeeze.

4th pitch step around to a bomber safe safe safe crack that is truly 5.8.

Looking down from 10 feet above the drilled piton on pitch 1. Its about 10 feet from that piton to a no hands stance where pro can be placed and squeezing into the chimney begins.

Castleton from the approach

Aiding the bolt ladder over the 5.11 section. Even in this case, some free moves off of the arete are needed to reach between the bolts and to finish. If you don't want to do that while aiding, bring a cheater stick and a hook. Nic is at the belay.

Matt en route to the Rectory

Nearing the final crux, where the offwidth makes a funny s-shape just before you can enter the squeeze. Fortunately you can place some gear in a chockstone at this section.

Michelle looking down P1

Bomber first bolt. Squeezing past the fin above to get to the drilled angle was an effort.

Matt in the not so squeezy squeeze

Comfortable rack for P1 (apart from 3 additional slings for bolts & chockstones). I doubled up gear on chockstones, so you could leave a nut & 0.4 behind if you don't care to. Also, tie your knot in long and clip direct to the VG for better climbing.

Matt starting up P2

Nic demonstrating the proper way to lead the exposed steparound of P4.

looking down the P2 chimney

Chad working up the last 5.8 pitch on Honeymoon.

Ben Faber on pitch 1 of the Priest, Castle Valley. Photo: Kevin Cropp.