from Brian Webster (Canadian Mountain Guide): When traversing left on the large snow slope (after topping out on the Big Step) you will encounter an obvious rock pinnacle that originates from the snow slope and is about 10 metres high. (If you are traversing the snow slope near the top, close to the moat, you would bump into this pinnacle.) The exit gully is just on the other side of the pinnacle, but most climbers scramble up between the pinnacle and the main wall (you can create a belay by slinging the top of the pinnacle). From here climb loose rock up and left so as to merge into the exit gully higher up. It is about 5 pitches of loose 5.4ish rock and/or snow and ice climbing to reach the summit ridge.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Banff NP > Valley of the T… > Mt Temple > E Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow PG13)

from Brian Webster (Canadian Mountain Guide): When<br>
traversing left on the large snow slope (after topping out on the Big Step)<br>
you will encounter an obvious rock pinnacle that originates from the snow<br>
slope and is about 10 metres high. (If you are traversing the snow slope<br>
near the top, close to the moat, you would bump into this pinnacle.) The<br>
exit gully is just on the other side of the pinnacle, but most climbers<br>
scramble up between the pinnacle and the main wall (you can create a belay<br>
by slinging the top of the pinnacle). From here climb loose rock up and<br>
left so as to merge into the exit gully higher up. It is about 5 pitches of<br>
loose 5.4ish rock and/or snow and ice climbing to reach the summit ridge.

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The final snow crest on the East Ridge. This is where Greenwood-Jones intersects the East Ridge route.

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Jordan Ramey

Aug 30, 2011

“from Brian Webster (Canadian Mountain Guide): When
traversing left on the large snow slope (after topping out on the Big Step)
you will encounter an obvious rock pinnacle that originates from the snow
slope and is about 10 metres high. (If you are traversing the snow slope
near the top, close to the moat, you would bump into this pinnacle.) The
exit gully is just on the other side of the pinnacle, but most climbers
scramble up between the pinnacle and the main wall (you can create a belay
by slinging the top of the pinnacle). From here climb loose rock up and
left so as to merge into the exit gully higher up. It is about 5 pitches of
loose 5.4ish rock and/or snow and ice climbing to reach the summit ridge.”

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Nearby Photos

Mike beginning the first lead up the Big Step.

The avalanche path where the adventure begins, not obvious at night. There's a pullout just before and just after this pin on the other side of the road.

Nearing the summit along the final section of the East Ridge.

Atop the Big Step, looking towards the Black Towers and the upper ridge.

Traversing under the black towers. This was the sketchiest part of the day.

Janelle beginning up The Big Step with the Valley of the Ten Peaks behind.

Nearing the top of the gully that skirts the Black Towers.

Ascending to the next higher ledge, below the Black Towers.

Beginning the traverse under the Black Towers.

Scott checking out the start of the Black Towers, Mt. Temple.

Crevasse crossing on the way to the top, Mt. Temple.

Begining the descent down the SW Ridge. Mt Deltaform in the background.

Sunrise from the East Ridge of Mt. Temple

Routefinding a bit below the summit ridge.

Brad climbing up "The Little Step" which goes up to the highest point in this pic. Many folks (us included) get the rope out for the last few moves, which are very steep and committing. There's a fixed pin right at the start of the steep stuff (2011)

The Valley of the Ten Peaks from the base of The Big Step. From L-> R are:<br>
Mt Quadra (Glaciated)<br>
Mt Babel (foreground)<br>
Mt Fay (Galciated)<br>
Mt Little<br>
Mt Bowlen<br>
Peak 4<br>
Mt Perren<br>
Mt Allen<br>
Mt Tuzo.

Approaching the Big Step. The route up the Step begins just left of the sun/shade line.

Endless 3rd & 4th class scrambling below the Big Step.

Loose rock is the crux of this route for sure. I got hit in the leg in the final few meters before topping out the Black Towers and it was unpleasant.

The Bivy Site immediately at the top of the Big Step. Pretty plush looking for it's position!

Mike begins the final pitch to the top of the Big Step.

Third-class scrambling to reach the Big Step.

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