On the approach to the East Buttress.

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On the approach to the East Buttress.

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The Peewee on the East Buttress.

Iceberg Lake campsite, with Whitney in background

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4.5 from 2 votes

Sam B.

Aug 2, 2011

“On the approach to the East Buttress. ”

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Mt. Whitney's East Buttress, just below the Peewee. Photo by Tauru.

An incredible line. This perspective is hard to imagine when you're looking up at the mountain, but I hope this photo shows how it isn't nearly as steep / scary when you're up there.

Roping up at the start of the route.

Sunrise from the E Buttress route

Topo aspect from Iceberg Lake showing 5.8 alternate start for the first pitch. Highly recommend this variation. Climbers can be seen on first pitch of regular 5.6 start.

Fun shot of Peewee on the East Buttress.

Brett leads the 5.7 piton-protected variation above the 2nd Tower.

John Fujii pauses on the crest. Iceberg Lake below.

Mt Whitney at sunrise. East Buttress is clearly visible on the right side of the picture.

Woah

Renee finishing up the crux moves on pitch 7.

Kevin on the East Buttress. December 2016

Stay along the cliffs to the right on the descent of the Mountaineers Route and aim for the notch (shown here) to the right of Piss Rock to avoid lower gully. Cairned all the way.

second 5.7 section

Jon coming up on pitch 3

Climbing past peewee block on Pitch 6. We went right of the block; easy climbing

remnants of the ice falls

Having some fun on blocks, pre-summit, post roped up

Straight down the buttress. Camp at Icerberg Lake below.

A view of the summit. There are many options here, but good route finding is needed to keep it 5.7. Many 5.8- 5.10 alternates...

Mike Morley and Jeff Crow atop Mt. Whitney after summiting the East Buttress on a bluebird day in late May, 2002.

1st pitch

Looking down pitch 1 to John Fujii

The Peewee on the East Buttress.

On the approach to the East Buttress.

Iceberg Lake campsite, with Whitney in background

Mountaineers Route descent (barely any snow left in May!)

Duke soloing high on the East Buttress.

Kevin on the East Buttress. December 2016

rippled slab is the first 5.7 section

Around the 4th pitch. Fun slabs ahead.

Looking up at the start of pitch 4.

2 climbers on top of the 2nd tower

Jonny pulls down on the right side of the Peewee. Photo by Brett Barrett.

looking up at the E Buttress

Pinnacle Ridge

Whitney

looking over to Russell

Seth on lead.

flakes around P4/5

Jeff Crow approaches the belay on one of the upper pitches of Whitney's East Buttress in late May, 2002.

John Fujii at the end of pitch 2.

Looking down the route from the summit. The class 3 talus is directly below and right of the arete.

easy blocky climbing on P4

Looking up to Pee Wee.

A view of Packy finding his way down the mountaineer's route...

Buttress

Following P1

Descending the mountaineers route.

view down to Iceberg

Melody Wong having fun on the crest.

another view of Pinnacle Ridge

P1 (regular start)

One of the airy sections, around pitch 6-8.

After submitting East Buttress

Orange dihedral pitch on East Buttress, Mt Whitney. Photo courtesy Bill McConachie

top of the 20' tower (marked on Supertopo)

Chris Astraus at the notch at the top of the 2nd pitch.