Mountain Project Logo

Doc doing the Plumb Line crux statically.  Well at least the crux from the Patio on up. The real crux is apparently on the slab below the Patio level. From the Patio the crux, according to Doc, is not the overhanging crack move but the delicate climbing beneath it.
ID 107191367

Rate Photo
     Clear Rating
  0.0 from 0 votes

losbill
Jun 27, 2011
Doc doing the Plumb Line crux statically. Well at least the crux from the Patio on up. The real crux is apparently on the slab below the Patio level. From the Patio the crux, according to Doc, is not the overhanging crack move but the delicate climbing beneath it.  
There is no variation of this route beginning below the Patio.
The Direct Variation is (IMHO) 5.12a and begins at the Patio directly below the route's crack line. Climb up the short slab to reach the beginning of the crack - here it is more of a seam - and continue all the way up. The beginning 15' are very technical & sequential. The pro, while adequate, is very strenuous to place and requires care and skill to place properly. One placement is effectively blind, and is critical to do right. Improper placement of that piece will almost certainly expose the leader to a bouncing fall past their belayer. In short, this is not a good entry-level testpiece for hard 5.11/5.12 leaders.
I should add that there is yet another variation of the standard line that reduces the grade to 5.10c/d: at the upper overhang, swing way right to catch the outside corner. It's not as pretty as the direct run following the seam, but it is easier. Jan 14, 2013

Nearby Photos