Mountain Project Logo
Ian working Bulbous.
ID 107123210 ·

Rate Photo
     Clear Rating
  0.0 from 0 votes

May 2, 2011
Ian working Bulbous.  
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Clear as mud Ian!!! I guess part of the appeal for me @ DL, similar to Axiom of Arete Aesthetics, is the mystery surrounding each climb. If it felt like a V8 then it was a V8. I tried both versions last summer and damn they both felt hard. Hoping to get back this fall and put this to rest. Aug 9, 2011
Ian CB  
Saw the old guide the other day and had a second look at Bulbous LC. It is written by EZ, the FA'ist of Bulbous. It says move left to a pinch from the starting jug. Not right to a crimp. It doesn't say anything about eliminating holds. Also in my opinion this is at least as hard as all of the other V8's I have done in the area. Aug 9, 2011
So here's the best that Huston and I figured it out.

Bulbous Left goes straight out left to the pinch, matches there and goes straight up ignoring the small crimp and the v shaped hold. It's an eliminate and was done after Bulbous Left Center after they realized most people can just reach the left hold as the first move. Generally seen as a stupid line not worth doing and not logical at all.

Bulbous Left Center went straight out right to the small crimp in the roof and used a heel hook to gain the left pinch hold. Then went right to the V shaped hold and topped out.

The way most people do this problem now is the way depicted in the picture and in the video, kind of a mash up of the two lines and the most logical. Huston and Todd called this way a 6 or a 7 which seems right in line with traditional DL grades.

Make sense? Aug 3, 2011

Nearby Photos