Beefing up the anchor with the gear Frank brought up. This is a short pleasant less than vertical step with thick ice. The only bit like it on the route. This is not an ice climb. It is a chimney climb with lot of snowy and icy bits. More scottish than classic San Juan ice climbing. More Eigerwand than Bridalveil.
Loose rock, down slopping holds, black, fragile weak rock that will explode when loaded with fall force. Having said that, I dare say this was one of the coolest climbs I have done in a long time. ”