Northeast Ridge, Bugaboo Spire Photo by MP contributor Steven Lucarelli Blue dashes - Approach Blue squares - Northeast Ridge Green - Kain Route Green line

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All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Bugaboos > Bugaboo Spire > N E Ridge (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Northeast Ridge, Bugaboo Spire<br>
Photo by MP contributor Steven Lucarelli<br>
<br>
Blue dashes - Approach<br>
Blue squares - Northeast Ridge<br>
Green - Kain Route<br>
Green line - Great Gendarme Rappel

ID 106973280 ·

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Route Overlay Summit Traverse Bugaboo Spire.

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4.4 from 5 votes

Ken Trout

Nov 28, 2010

“Northeast Ridge, Bugaboo Spire
Photo by MP contributor Steven Lucarelli

Blue dashes - Approach
Blue squares - Northeast Ridge
Green - Kain Route
Green line - Great Gendarme Rappel”

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Nearby Photos

Les M absorbing the awesomeness of Bugaboo's NE Ridge, on approach. Photo: Avery Nelson

Route Overlay Descent from Bugaboo Spire.

Here's a good view looking up at the NE ridge

High on the ridge with Brenta Spire and Cobalt Lake in the background.<br>

Heading to the belay station at the top of Pitch 3

Rapping off the top of Bugaboo spire after climbing the NE ridge.

Pitch 6 (5.8 crack variation to left of chimney).

Summit with the Howser Towers in the distance

Route Overlay Approach to NE Ridge Bugaboo Spire.

going up the crescent-bugaboo col, use the ramp depicted here. the rappel line is very close to climbers right. 4 60m rappels gets you to the ground.

Taking the 5.9 hand crack variation off the belay ledge to the left of the low 5th class chimney system. A good exit point, right, into the chimney system exists 50m. A 5.10 corner crack continues above, however it is dirty and the gear/hand holds peter out near the top. It is possible to traverse into the chimney system from the top of the 5.10 corner crack

The rappel from the Gendarme on the descent. Be sure to go left, then move underneath the overhanging blade of rock. Credit: www.chossboys.weebly.com

Map for Northeast Ridge, Bugaboo Spire<br>
contour interval: 100 feet<br>
<br>
Blue - Northeast Ridge<br>
Green - Kain Route Descent

At the south summit with the Howser Towers in the background. Credit: www.chossboys.weebly.com

Topping out on north summit with south summit and Howsers in the background.

Midway through the summit traverse to the descent of Bugaboo spire.

Lovely granite on the NE ridge of Bugaboo.

Francis follows on the fifth pitch of NE Ridge.

close up of ramp leading to the top of the bugaboo crescent col.

first and second pitches of the NE Ridge

5.10 section to gain South summit after the traverse from North summit instead of rapelling

Pitch 7 (5.9 crack variation to left of chimney). This pitch got harder higher up, so we made a delicate traverse to the right back into the chimney system.

Lisa Foster and Paul Kejla on the approach to the col.

anchor at pitch three that you can bail from. 3 60m raps gets you to the ground.

If there are too many parties on Northeast ridge and you need to bail you can repel down the Crescent bugaboo col. Here is a picture of the top anchor. There are four repels down to the glacier that can be done with the 60 m

Tony Tennessee rappels towards the Gendarme on the Kain Route during the descent. Snowpatch Spire behind.

If you encounter a lineup at the base, at least you can enjoy a comfortable view of the sunrise over the mountains.

A shot of the approach to the 4th class rock to gain the ridge proper

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