Dylan on Peter's Project 10-31-10.
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Burt Lindquist
Nov 1, 2010
Dylan on Peter's Project 10-31-10.
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
To attempt to answer Zachery's question about leaving slack in one line when using a Twin rope system. Not really. The belayer would feed out slack to line the lead climber is currently pulling up to clip into the latest protection piece in the alternating sequence. Just like any other situation for a climber belaying a lead climber he or she would feed rope out when the leader pulls it up (helps reduce rope drag- makes the lead line less heavy.. etc). Apr 24, 2013
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
That is a half rope. Seems like that might have been a Marathon Day, and they were using the half in order to have less rope to pull up at the end of each pitch (it adds up when you're doing 15-20 pitches in a day!).

I'm happy twinning a half rope if the gear is bomber and the route is straight, but if the gear is faintly suspect it is better to use half-rope technique. Be aware that there is more stretch with a half than a single.

Half rope technique is only marginally of value on "Peter's." Much more appropriate to "Brinton's" or "Berkeley." Apr 24, 2013
I have often used double rope technique at DL and elsewhere. Typically I use two skinny "single" rated ropes as either twins or halfs. As to what technique I use depends on the route and circumstances. I might go with twin style if I need two ropes for rappel for example. I might go with half style if the route wanders alot or has sketchy pro. I have also used two ropes to belay two followers at the same time, clipping one rope most of the time except in cases where I need to protect the first follower (the second follower cleans the gear) from a traverse and then I add a second runner for the second rope on the piece in the traverse.
At DL specifically, with the sketchy pro, it's probably best to use real half rated ropes for that technique to allow a little more stretch in the system and hopefully less force on the gear but I have only found this necessary on a handful of harder headpoints. Damn, I have even used one "half" rope along with a gym rope (less stretch) so that the gym rope wouldn't stretch too much and put me on the ground.
The important point is that there's alot off differing opinions as to how to utilize "double" ropes and technique might vary from place to place, so find the facts from the manufacturer and use your brain to figure out the rest. Happy thinking! Apr 24, 2013

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