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Pinhead climbs the thin crack on the left through the lower roof and directly up to the higher roof, passing a small bush.
ID 106896218 ·

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john durr
Sep 20, 2010
Pinhead climbs the thin crack on the left through the lower roof and directly up to the higher roof, passing a small bush.  
john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
You can see what's left of the old pin just above the first roof's lip.

The next crack to the right is 5.11 with a pin and shinny bolt that joins Pinhead at the second roof and goes right at a bolt onto the sharp sunlit arete above past two more bolts and the Sorcerer's true summit. Best to start on Sleight of Hand instead of traversing in from Pinhead. I believe it's called Shaman Skyway FA: Mike Roberts established some time before 2003.

The right crack that starts in the left facing dihedral is Slight of Hand 5.10a. It heads up into the large shaded left facing dihedral to the top, a very cool route as well. Sep 20, 2010
ttriche
Grand Rapids, MI
ttriche   Grand Rapids, MI
Pinhead looks like such a fat crack in this picture, versus up close, when you actually try to cram your tips into it while fishing in a crappy nut and tearing off your pinky fingernails :-)

Exhilarating climbing for sure. Thank you for the beta on the adjacent climbs as well. Sep 20, 2010
Thomas Claiborne
San Diego
Thomas Claiborne   San Diego
I disagree with John that it's "best" to start on Sleight of Hand to climb Shaman Skyway. The original FA party traversed in on the "Shindig Traverse" under the roof to start Shaman.

You can protect the traverse with a small (absolute bomber) nut on a runner and it will prevent a deck -- I've tested this a couple of times :-). Not doing the traverse bypasses the crux and IMO adventurous character of the route. The climbing under the roof is interesting, tenuous, and just committing enough to get your blood pumping. Jul 2, 2018

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Pinhead climbs the thin crack on the left through the lower roof and directly up to the higher roof, passing a small bush.