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All Locations > New Mexico > Las Cruces Area… > Organ Mountains > High Horns > Wedge > W Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)
As we climbed the narrow gully towards the start of P1, I stumbled on this guy. We couldn't (safely) get him to move (even coaxing him w/ a stick, he only made one short rattle), so we had to climb a p-minus 1 to gain the P0 belay.
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Zack coming out of the "birthing hole" at the top of the "roofed chimney" in the gully to gain the P1 belay ledge.
Looking up at the West Ridge from the second saddle described in the Ingraham guide ("You attain a saddle from which you can slip into the narrow gully which mounts between the W Ridges of the Wedge and Lost Peak"). When you get to this saddle, it's obvious that you're in the right place. Photo was actually taken after scrambling onto the rocks just west of the tiny saddle. The two "great parallel grooves" which mark the start of P1 are clearly visible.
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Robert Cort
Sep 5, 2010
“As we climbed the narrow gully towards the start of P1, I stumbled on this guy. We couldn't (safely) get him to move (even coaxing him w/ a stick, he only made one short rattle), so we had to climb a p-minus 1 to gain the P0 belay.”  

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Nearby Photos

Erik Lehnhoff leading pitch 2, at perhaps the most exciting part of the route.
Ingraham's guide describes two saddles in his approach description. This is the first one: "a clearcut saddle beneath the gendarmes at the end of the W Ridge". The gendarmes clearly visible. The place to cross the brushy gully to the grassy slope leading to the saddle was well marked with cairns, but we found no trail after the crossing.
North face of the Wedge as seen from the West Ridge of Lost Peak. The two large steps are surmounted by pitches 3 and 4 of the West Ridge route.
SWM climb on the West Ridge of the Wedge circa 50 years ago. With permission from Chris O'Brien.
Looking back at the approach nearing the turn-off...
Old piton on pitch 2.
Marta Reece climbing pitch 4.
Pitch 4 of the West Ridge route on the Wedge
Looking down on P1 from the P2 belay.
Looking up at P1 of the West Ridge. The leftmost of the "great parallel grooves" is just visible in the upper right of the photo.
Looking up from the P2 belay.
Zack coming out of the "birthing hole" at the top of the "roofed chimney" in the gully to gain the P1 belay ledge.