the tree start is a must do!

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Sheriff's Badge > Angel's Crest (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)

the tree start is a must do!

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Pitch 11 variation (10a).

The totem along the forest scramble below the Acrophobes

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Shino

Aug 18, 2010

“the tree start is a must do! ”

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After the Acrophobes.

The splitter 5.10b offwidth variation to pitch 7. Isn't it beautiful? I'm a sucker for offwidths... Too bad the #5 I lugged up there wouldn't do anything for me.

Dan leading the 5.10b offwidth. He used a BD #6 for the first 1/3, then a VG 9 for the 2/3. Sort of ran it out until closer to the top where he could place a nut and a BD 0.5.<br>
I tried this on top-rope and felt like it was impossible. Master the heel-toe cam and you should be good.

Leading the Angel Crack

Daniel, feeling psyched on the exposure of the Acrophobes. You can see the rest of the route in the distance.

How large is the 10b offwidth? The Unbearable Lightness of Burly Angels.

Pitch 1 Tree Option: 2014 and 2019. Several broken branches make this no longer the preferred start to the route.

Pitch 8, 5.9 crack.

The Whaleback at the top of Pitch 11.

A stitched together panoramic of the north walls of the Chief taken from the loop trail in the Smoke Bluffs just above the far right side of Ronin's Corner.<br>
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Angel's Crest runs up the edge visible in the middle of the image, just left of the Sheriff's Badge.

Pitch 12.

Flex belaying on one of the aptly named Acrophobe Towers. photo by Jeff Kennedy

Looking up from the base of Pitch 1, 5.7 groove option (this starts on a ledge above the bushy corner).

Flex starting up the Angel Crack (pitch 2) photo by Jeff Kennedy

Cool light on the "sting in the tail" (P12/13)

Looking up at the headwall from below the Acrophobes

Climbing up the last 5.10a pitch. The Acrophobe's Traverse can be seen in the top right.

The second to last pitch is stellar. I was blown out from leading the first five pitches of borderline linking into angels and gave this lead to my partner. That was a mistake.

Pitch 8 offwidth variation (10a).

P2: The Angel Crack

Nearing the end of an awesome pitch

Conrad Gmoser atop the Acrophobes', at the belay

Pitch 11 variation (10a).

the tree start is a must do!

The totem along the forest scramble below the Acrophobes

One more pitch to go!

Top of the Angel's Crack pitch

Climbing up the fist crack on pitch 10, and loving it. Look at the view!

Flex finishing off the last few moves of Angel's Crest. photo by Jeff Kennedy

Looking down the North Gully of the Chief. The Acrophobe towers are visible in the lower middle of the shot. The finishing pitches are just around the corner of the buttress on the right. The building in the upper middle with the brown roof is the hospital. The Smoke Bluffs are just out of sight at the top of the image.

10c last pitch variation. Short and sweet.

P12

Slabby bolted face on Pitch 1 (10b option).

The second half of Pitch 1 (10 option). We broke it up into 2 pitches. There is a bolted anchor halfway.

Looking up Pitch 1 (10b option).

10a crack on Pitch 12.

Rap anchor to start of Pitch 10.

The Acrophobes (Pitch 9) of Angel's Crest

Bushy corner that leads to 5.7 groove option for Pitch 1.

The Acrophobes pitch