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Photo/topo for Castle Rock (SW Face),  Castle Rock
ID 106855570 ·

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  5.0 from 2 votes

C Miller
Aug 11, 2010
Photo/topo for Castle Rock (SW Face), Castle Rock  
Mary Moser
Joshua Tree, CA
Mary Moser   Joshua Tree, CA
According to this photo, The Sphynx (5.6) is shown as topping out at the same anchor as for Ball and Chain (5.10a). The moves are there, but once you leave the crack you are basically finishing on the other climb. Additionally, there is no pro to be had after the crack runs out and it's slightly overhung. An alternative, which feels more like 5.6, is to follow the left-slanting crack that begins just before the main crack fizzles out. This alternative can be protected, yet it still offers some nice exposure. Taking this alternate finish leads you to the anchors for The Great Steps of Cheops (5.8). Aug 7, 2011
yucca valley, ca
tomallen112190   yucca valley, ca
Great route photo, thank you. I think I'll go hunt this down in June. May 10, 2016

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