Around the crux of P4

All Locations > California > Sierra Eastside > Lee Vining Cany… > Dana Plateau > Third Pillar, Regular… (5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b)

Around the crux of P4

ID 106833704 ·

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Found this towards the end of P4 after the crux. Not really needed as there were options for other placements. We ended up making an anchor here.

Roberto on the 4th class approach gully.

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fossana

Jul 21, 2010

“Around the crux of P4”

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Nearby Photos

Alone on the Third Pillar of Dana photo by Drew Smith.

Evan looking down at Mono Lake from the Third Pillar of Dana

All smiles on the last pitch

Current (as of Sat 15 July 2017) conditions of the snow field traverse to get to the base of Third Pillar.

Atop the huge, scary-looking-but-solid flake with great 10a fingers on pitch 4 (pitch 5 if you do the direct start like we did.)

Sunrise at the Third Pillar

3rd Pillar of Dana Descent.

Not a bad view from the summit of the 3rd! -photo by Tim Klein

Third Pillar of Dana

Linda finishes up the last moves on the stellar final pitch of Third Pillar.<br>
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photo by danafelthauser.com

The regular route as viewed form the approach. The red line closely follows the route.

Looking up at the route from the base. Most of the route is just to the right of the left skyline.

This is terrible!

Roberto and Duke on the approach hike.

Top of first pitch

Last Pitch on Third Pillar. <br>
<br>
**flake being climbed is kinda loose/scary. Finger crack to climber's right harder but safer.

Brian crossing the snow gully 7/22/2011.

Looking straight up the direct start.

Rita on the last pitch.<br>
<br>
Photo by S. Cox

The pillar from Lake Mono at sunset

Summit shot, topping out on 3rd Pillar of Dana. Photo by Ryan. Sun 4 Aug 2013.

My recommendation is to taking the left route variation because it lands your belay on this sweet detached flake. Plus it's all-in-all better climbing.

Bill Geist following the upper section of the fourth pitch. Nice exposure!

Looking down the route from the top.

Third Pillar

Last pitch!

Crossing the snow gully to reach the base.

Calvin Kilcrease leading above the 10a finger crack on P.4.

3rd Pillar

BEAUTIFUL piece of rock

Looking across the gully to the ledges that mark the normal start of the route, which is just below the large detached flake on the left ridge line.

Early morning light on the upper pitches of Third Pillar. The descent route is also lit up. Photo taken from Hwy 120.

Ginger on Third Pillar of Dana with the route unfolding below

Topping out on the Third Pillar

3rd Pillar at Sunrise 7/30/22

Eric Burt leading just above the first crux on P.5.

Jeremy Freeman on the 1st pitch

Taking the stellar view in before the descent

Third Pillar.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.

Eric Collins on 3rd Pillar, circa 1986

Tristan on the final pitch

Up up and away!

Ginger on p1

Vincent downclimbing the prow to the right of the gully to reach the base of the route.

Finishing the chimney on P3.

Downclimbing to bypass the snowy gully. Up high is some exposed 4th class but it gets gets easier and more obvious lower down

Jeff past the crux section of pitch 2, getting into the wide 5.7 stretch.

Looking up at P5. The first section looked unlikely so I skirted too far left and got into more difficult territory. Aim for a right facing corner with a mini roof to its right instead of doing what I did!

Pitch 4 protection, for the section right after the layback flake. It is well protected...there is no ledge fall potential if you do the following:
<br>

<br>
1. Brass offset, small-ish
<br>
2. yellow/blue offset BD X4 cam or comparable
<br>
3. Blue 0.3 BD cam & sling

Rob just finishing the 10b fingers section on the gorgeous last pitch.

the traverse that starts P2

Found this towards the end of P4 after the crux. Not really needed as there were options for other placements. We ended up making an anchor here.

Around the crux of P4

Roberto on the 4th class approach gully.

Eric Collins on the summit of 3rd pillar

The top of the descent to reach the base of the route.

third pillar on the left. approach/downclimb on the right

Kurt on top after leading the amazing final pitch.

Having fun on the Third Pillar, Regular Route

An unforgettable climb and views while sitting out a few storms. Clear sunny skies in the morning got ugly real fast. Curtains of rain passed us and over Tioga Pass Road.

In This Photo

vincent L.

Redwood City

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